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I am in South Florida. Lightning storms every day and/or night in summertime. What does everyone do when there is a storm? Unplug charger?
 

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For what it's worth, the chargers all have big honking relays in them and when the car is fully charged the relay disconnects (on the Fisker-branded Blink I have, that's the loud "ker-THUNK"; on the convenience charger you can hear it click too, though it's not quite as big and honking of course).

When the relay is open, only something like a direct lightning strike (high current at extremely high voltage) will bridge the gap and fry things, and a direct strike is as likely to set your house/garage on fire as it is to damage the vehicle. So over-voltage—the kind of spikes that fry computers and microwave ovens and iPhones and such during lightning storms—is probably only a problem if the car is actively charging.

Someone who knows more about the design of the charger circuit would be able to tell you what the tolerable voltage range is.

Florida does have a very high incidence of lightning (and lightning-caused fires), of course...
 

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Here are some pics of my "install"...sorry if it's a little fuzzy, best I could do with the iPad in a dimly lit garage.

Tip: To remove the red plastic cover from the Positive terminal, you need to *squeeze/press* the little red tabs on the sides. Resist all temptation to pull, pry or lift the tabs.
 

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Thats fine I can't trust my customers to hook up the cables correctly so I hard wire the cables into the car this way they only need to plug the two wires together and since the plugs are keyed they can't mess it up .
 

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I will post pictures I would hate to see someone hook it up wrong . The positive should go to the post in the fuse box that has the 10 mm nut on it the ground I use is the bolt on the APM that is the unit closes to the firewall with the red cover on it . I've installed a bunch of them using the stud sticking up in the fuse box is the easiest to use also you don't even have to remove the nut just install another nut on top of the factory one with the trickle charger positive lead sandwiched in between them .

I am just thinking about this for the winter - I am have searched a few posts about trickle chargers but there are just too many.

Can some one post pics of where I will hard wire the charger to?

Thank you
 

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I am just thinking about this for the winter - I am have searched a few posts about trickle chargers but there are just too many.

Can some one post pics of where I will hard wire the charger to?

Thank you
Ignore this - I will jump to the storing car for winter thread.
 

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I hate to recussitate a 2013 post to ask this, but after 9 years I finally bought a tender, and it has clamps, not eyelets, so when I clamp the positive terminal in the fuse box, I can’t close the fuse box, and therefore I also can’t close the hood. Anyone else had this problem, and (other than buy a proper tender with eyelets) what’s the solution? Can I go to Home Depot and buy an eyelet connector that I can somehow clamp on to?

Secondly: is it correct that I use “AGM” mode on the tender. It came with absolutely no instructions.
 

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I hate to recussitate a 2013 post to ask this, but after 9 years I finally bought a tender, and it has clamps, not eyelets, so when I clamp the positive terminal in the fuse box, I can’t close the fuse box, and therefore I also can’t close the hood. Anyone else had this problem, and (other than buy a proper tender with eyelets) what’s the solution? Can I go to Home Depot and buy an eyelet connector that I can somehow clamp on to?

Secondly: is it correct that I use “AGM” mode on the tender. It came with absolutely no instructions.
Cut off the clamps and get eyelets you need a crimping tool also
 

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And AGM mode is for AGM batteries. From what I have read, charging a flooded battery (non-AGM) in AGM mode is okay. However, charging an AGM battery with a regular charger is not okay (may overheat them and cause damage).
 

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Thanks guys. Crimping on eyelets will be my long term fix, but for this occasion I was able to use a piece of high-gauge speaker wire (copper) to bridge the gap from the clamp to the terminal (using another nut to hold it down). Not a bad fix, actually.
 
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