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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
As on old research guy, I like statistics. I'm curious if some of our resident techs on this site have access to enough data to answer this question easily:

Based on the database of warranty work done on all Fisker Karmas to-date, which cars have had the LEAST amount of repair work (warranty or otherwise). In other words, what are the "top 10 Most Dependable Karmas" out there?

Data often uncovers patterns, e.g.: was there a series of VINs that are most likely to cause you less grief? Maybe the opposite would hold true, and what one really wants is one of the "10 MOST worked-on cars", given that they could be considered the most "up-to-date" with best-practice repairs.

My car (#007) has had very little work, mainly just a couple software upgrades and a "front-wheel click" fix. So maybe that is good and maybe that is bad (lurking problems?).
 

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lower VINs will have the most amount warranty work mainly due to the fact that they were around longer and had to go through more of the "growing pains" and temporary fixes that Fisker went through.

Higher VINs were able to benefit from more of the "lessons learned" from early on. However, that does not mean these cars arent immune to their own problems.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
lower VINs will have the most amount warranty work mainly due to the fact that they were around longer and had to go through more of the "growing pains" and temporary fixes that Fisker went through.

Higher VINs were able to benefit from more of the "lessons learned" from early on. However, that does not mean these cars arent immune to their own problems.
While I understand the logic here, the reason I ask for data is that I have made my living disproving "conventional wisdom" by virtue of digging through actual data. Now, maybe my car is an anomaly, but the fact is that I have the lowest VIN of just about anybody here, and yet I have not had many problems. Or maybe they just haven't occurred due to only 7000 miles on the car.

So although I hear ya, I am not one to fully believe anecdotal data (of which my one car represents that phenomenon), so I love to see data. It may be worthless data or may be unavailable in a form that would be useful, but you never know what you will find until you open the box.
 

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Average failure is 7000-15000, so you're only just hitting it with your car. Regarding your vehicle, I'm 99% certain you have the old clip in your RDM that is prone to failure. About 85% certain you have soft spline motors that may spin out on you. Your HV battery may or may not have any issues. If you have the original exhaust, the failure rate is very high, though the mileage of failure really depends on how often you run the engine.

The data isn't really in a usable form, at least not one that I'd want to spend the time digging through and looking up each individual VIN. Fisker HQ may have a better way to extract the data though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The data isn't really in a usable form, at least not one that I'd want to spend the time digging through and looking up each individual VIN.
This is sort of what I expected, so thanks for clarifying what you have access to!

Regarding your vehicle, I'm 99% certain you have the old clip in your RDM that is prone to failure. About 85% certain you have soft spline motors that may spin out on you.
And maybe its time for me to have some spline/RDM work done as preventative maintenance on "Bond" (#007).
 

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When you start thinking about having it done, feel free to contact me. I'll be happy to discuss options, cost, etc
 

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About 85% certain you have soft spline motors that may spin out on you.
Lormax: are the soft splines a problem for a particular VIN range (ie: 1-1000), or is that a problem for all Karmas, with mileage/ICE use being the trigger in all cases?

And does pre-emptive action save you additional expense later, or should one just wait until the problem arises, if it arises, to address it?
 

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I've seen a spline issue in a vehicle with a VIN as high as 1478. Now, it may not have been a soft spline issue and more of a no-grease problem, allowing rust to form and act as an abrasive to wear it out.

The really early VIN's, sub 500 or so, have a pretty definite issue with the soft splines.
 

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The really early VIN's, sub 500 or so, have a pretty definite issue with the soft splines.
So, with #328 (just a couple above Dennis' former drive), is an ounce of prevention worth a pound of cure, or do I keep driving and let Harleyguy deal with this when it becomes an issue?

PS - the sub 500 stat seems responsive to the original post, so that's good to note.
 

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It's an expensive fix, and can be dealt with when/if it spins out on you. Of course when it spins out, you're flatbedding the car from wherever it's at. Some people are pro-active about it, some people are reactive about it. Either method works, the result is the same, as long as the RDM clip is updated prior to it damaging itself beyond repair.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
It's an expensive fix, and can be dealt with when/if it spins out on you. Of course when it spins out, you're flatbedding the car from wherever it's at. Some people are pro-active about it, some people are reactive about it. Either method works, the result is the same, as long as the RDM clip is updated prior to it damaging itself beyond repair.
Thanks Lormax… I thought I understood your points right up until the last clause. Are you saying that the new RDM clip IS a preventative measure that can be taken at lower cost than replacing ancillary damage that a busted clip would potentially cause later? Are the first couple of sentences only relevant to the soft spline issues?
 

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Yes, updating the RDM clip is preventative. Once something in the RDM breaks, you're looking at replacing the unit, as replacement parts aren't available separately.

The first part does pertain to the spline issues, yes. Sorry for the run-on post, I was probably on my phone.
 

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Can you please explain to me what an RDM clip, soft spline etc. are? I have 14K on my car and no dealer/service center. I live on Long Island and I think Miller Motor Cars in Greenwich, CT may still service the car. If there is something that is in need of changing, it might be better for me to do it preventatively, rather than getting stuck on the road.
 

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RDM and traction motor repairs have been discussed at length on the forums. I'll give you the quick version though.

RDM clip - A clip inside the RDM that holds one of the input shafts in place. The older RDM's have a rounded clip that tends to fail at its job, allowing the input shaft to pop out of place. The input shaft has a gear on it which, once the shaft moves, starts to grind on the inside of the RDM housing. This has the potential for causing catastrophic damage to the RDM if left unchecked.

Soft Splines - A traction motor problem. The splines in the portion of the traction motor that the RDM's input shaft slide into were made too soft to withstand the abuse from turning the RDM input shaft. When I had the hardness checked, the RDM shaft was about 2.5 times harder than the splines on the traction motor. This causes the splines to wear out prematurely, allowing the traction motor to be 'spun out'. When this happens the traction motor freely spins when the accelerator is applied, making a very loud whining noise and the car barely moves, if at all.

I'll PM you regarding your individual vehicle Ixtractm
 
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