Fisker Buzz Forums banner
1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I started to drive my car today, and about 11 miles from home I had a sudden warning:

Reduced Performance
Contact Service Center


This was accompanied by a CEL and a exclamation in a triangle, and the car would not accelerate. I was able to coast to a nearby parking lot.

Step 1, I turned it off and did a hard reset by unplugging the plug under the hood. I waited 2 minutes, plugged it back up, and restarted. This time there was no error, but "Ready" flashed and it wouldn't go out of Park.

I used my OBDLink II to clear the codes, and then I reset again. This time the CEL came on but it would go in to Drive. So I tried to rush home.

I made it 7 miles before the same thing happened. I coasted to a driveway, did a hard reset (without clearing codes), and it came back with the CEL.

While waiting I did some research, and found a thread from 2013 that said this was related to a misfire and that Sports mode "may" help. So I put it in Sports mode immediately; the error stayed, but I was able to make it the remaining 4 miles to home.

When I got home I used my OBDLink II again, and found 17 error codes. I'll insert those at the bottom of this post.

Any thoughts on how to proceed? The nearest Fisker mechanic to me is @FiskerPhilly, 12 hours away :'-(

I have around 35,000 miles, and I read that one potential problem is the coupler. Any suggestions on how to verify that? I'm going to guess that the local GM dealership wouldn't be able to fix that?


Potential variables:

* It was 83 degrees and sunny, and I had AC and the stereo going.

* I ran my car through an automatic car wash on the way home on Friday, which was the last time I drove it. I usually don't do that because it has caused electrical problems in the past, but... peer pressure :-(

* The power here has flickered several times in the last few weeks. I made an effort to unplug the car before any storms came up, so it may not have been fully charged every time that I unplugged it. But there were at least 2 times when the power flickered on a pretty sunny day, so it would have been plugged up then.

When I got in this time, though, it appeared to be fully charged.



14479


14480


14481
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Simply enough… this is not a simple self repair, take it to Joe in Philly or sell it for less than $20k. Not good options, but I’m being realistic. A GM dealer can’t fix it and a Karma dealer won’t want to touch it as they can’t get parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
You know how when you feel sick and try to Google the symptoms, the results are that it can be anything from a common cold to cancer?

That's kinda how this has been :-(

I haven't found anything with the same diagnostic codes, but from Googling the "Reduced Performance" error I'm finding some instances where it fixed itself after a few days or after a few hard resets, others where a battery was going bad, others where the coupler had to be replaced. So it could be minor, major, or something in between!

Considering how the last few months have been going, I'm betting it's major, though :-/


One other thing that my girlfriend reminded me... a couple of weeks ago I was driving on a hot day with the AC going, and when taking a left turn I had water pour out all over my feet! I have no clue where it originated, but it didn't smell like coolant or anything.

And a couple of years ago, I was having a problem with the infotainment system shorting out at random times. After some discussion on here we decided that there was an issue with water getting in to it from the car wash, which is why I'd stopped doing that. After several months it stopped shorting out, so it seemed to have dried out on its own.

So right now I'm really hoping that it's an issue of water being where it shouldn't, and it'll dry out after a few days.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,093 Posts
If water came in on the drivers side your VCM is probably getting wet. What many dont realize is that when we do all of our cowl modifications in-house here one of the things we do is preemptively seal the hood release cable grommet that seems to periodically leak water. When it does leak it drips right into the VCM much like the CIU on the passenger side (probably also the case here)
However many of your fault codes are HV battery related so Im actually steering towards that.
Step 1 NO CAR WASHES until the cowl is corrected
Step 2 as previously mentioned send it up to me and we will get it straightened out
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I was planning to do that last year, but COVID did a number on my income :'-( Things are starting to improve, but MUCH slower than I'd like!!!

Is this something that you could do on-site? It might be cheaper and easier for me to fly your guy here and put him in a hotel for the night...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Also...

Any suggestions on how to get the existing water out? I thought about parking it on a decline for a few hours (hood facing downward), but then realized that might be the OPPOSITE of what I need! LOL
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6 Posts
Simply enough… this is not a simple self repair, take it to Joe in Philly or sell it for less than $20k. Not good options, but I’m being realistic. A GM dealer can’t fix it and a Karma dealer won’t want to touch it as they can’t get parts.
Hi can a 12 volt battery on its way out cause the reduced performance indication to come on ? It would only drive in stealth mode not sport ! This indicated that the engine would not run ? It sat in the sun at 95 degrees before I attempted to drive home ! I drove it around a bit then shut it off and restarted and engine ran with sport mode being able to operate ! This was a Southern California car a bit cooler than Florida’s 95 degrees where battery’s only last about two years ! What is anyone’s thoughts ! Had two coders cleared then out before driving home ! Car seems normal but concerned about 12 V battery beginning to fail ? Is the Fisker battery a regular 12 v battery available from a local auto store ? Or a company I need to buy a replacement thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
24 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I meant to update this a few days ago.

I let my car sit in the garage until last week. Hood up for aeration, but otherwise protected.

About a month ago I started it up, and there were no errors or anything. That was positive! :-D But it rained almost every day after that, and I didn't want to take it out until it was dry.

So last week, on a sunny day, I took it out and drove up and down my road for 45 minutes. I intentionally sharpened curves and hit every bump I could find, but didn't have any problems.

Then on Monday, at around midnight (no real traffic on the road), I pulled it out again and drove a big backroad circle for about an hour. Again, no problems.

So I think that the theory of having water in the VCM, and letting it dry out solved the problem. Now I plan to caulk the crap out of it and hope for the best.

In my case, when the error came on it didn't matter whether I was in Stealth or Sport, it wouldn't work either way. When I finally got it to run again (that first day, not recently) I put it in Sport mode to make it the remaining 4 miles to home, but I don't know if that was relevant or just a coincidence.

I don't know about the batteries, I'll let someone else chime in on that one. My research led me to (a) water in the VCM, or (b) the coupler going bad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I started to drive my car today, and about 11 miles from home I had a sudden warning:

Reduced Performance
Contact Service Center


This was accompanied by a CEL and a exclamation in a triangle, and the car would not accelerate. I was able to coast to a nearby parking lot.

Step 1, I turned it off and did a hard reset by unplugging the plug under the hood. I waited 2 minutes, plugged it back up, and restarted. This time there was no error, but "Ready" flashed and it wouldn't go out of Park.

I used my OBDLink II to clear the codes, and then I reset again. This time the CEL came on but it would go in to Drive. So I tried to rush home.

I made it 7 miles before the same thing happened. I coasted to a driveway, did a hard reset (without clearing codes), and it came back with the CEL.

While waiting I did some research, and found a thread from 2013 that said this was related to a misfire and that Sports mode "may" help. So I put it in Sports mode immediately; the error stayed, but I was able to make it the remaining 4 miles to home.

When I got home I used my OBDLink II again, and found 17 error codes. I'll insert those at the bottom of this post.

Any thoughts on how to proceed? The nearest Fisker mechanic to me is @FiskerPhilly, 12 hours away :'-(

I have around 35,000 miles, and I read that one potential problem is the coupler. Any suggestions on how to verify that? I'm going to guess that the local GM dealership wouldn't be able to fix that?


Potential variables:

* It was 83 degrees and sunny, and I had AC and the stereo going.

* I ran my car through an automatic car wash on the way home on Friday, which was the last time I drove it. I usually don't do that because it has caused electrical problems in the past, but... peer pressure :-(

* The power here has flickered several times in the last few weeks. I made an effort to unplug the car before any storms came up, so it may not have been fully charged every time that I unplugged it. But there were at least 2 times when the power flickered on a pretty sunny day, so it would have been plugged up then.

When I got in this time, though, it appeared to be fully charged.

Hey did you ever get this problem fixed? I’m going through the exact same thing please respond and let me know what was the fix


View attachment 14479

View attachment 14480

View attachment 14481
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
You know how when you feel sick and try to Google the symptoms, the results are that it can be anything from a common cold to cancer?

That's kinda how this has been :-(

I haven't found anything with the same diagnostic codes, but from Googling the "Reduced Performance" error I'm finding some instances where it fixed itself after a few days or after a few hard resets, others where a battery was going bad, others where the coupler had to be replaced. So it could be minor, major, or something in between!

Considering how the last few months have been going, I'm betting it's major, though :-/


One other thing that my girlfriend reminded me... a couple of weeks ago I was driving on a hot day with the AC going, and when taking a left turn I had water pour out all over my feet! I have no clue where it originated, but it didn't smell like coolant or anything.

And a couple of years ago, I was having a problem with the infotainment system shorting out at random times. After some discussion on here we decided that there was an issue with water getting in to it from the car wash, which is why I'd stopped doing that. After several months it stopped shorting out, so it seemed to have dried out on its own.

So right now I'm really hoping that it's an issue of water being where it shouldn't, and it'll dry out after a few days.
I started to drive my car today, and about 11 miles from home I had a sudden warning:

Reduced Performance
Contact Service Center


This was accompanied by a CEL and a exclamation in a triangle, and the car would not accelerate. I was able to coast to a nearby parking lot.

Step 1, I turned it off and did a hard reset by unplugging the plug under the hood. I waited 2 minutes, plugged it back up, and restarted. This time there was no error, but "Ready" flashed and it wouldn't go out of Park.

I used my OBDLink II to clear the codes, and then I reset again. This time the CEL came on but it would go in to Drive. So I tried to rush home.

I made it 7 miles before the same thing happened. I coasted to a driveway, did a hard reset (without clearing codes), and it came back with the CEL.

While waiting I did some research, and found a thread from 2013 that said this was related to a misfire and that Sports mode "may" help. So I put it in Sports mode immediately; the error stayed, but I was able to make it the remaining 4 miles to home.

When I got home I used my OBDLink II again, and found 17 error codes. I'll insert those at the bottom of this post.

Any thoughts on how to proceed? The nearest Fisker mechanic to me is @FiskerPhilly, 12 hours away :'-(

I have around 35,000 miles, and I read that one potential problem is the coupler. Any suggestions on how to verify that? I'm going to guess that the local GM dealership wouldn't be able to fix that?


Potential variables:

* It was 83 degrees and sunny, and I had AC and the stereo going.

* I ran my car through an automatic car wash on the way home on Friday, which was the last time I drove it. I usually don't do that because it has caused electrical problems in the past, but... peer pressure :-(

* The power here has flickered several times in the last few weeks. I made an effort to unplug the car before any storms came up, so it may not have been fully charged every time that I unplugged it. But there were at least 2 times when the power flickered on a pretty sunny day, so it would have been plugged up then.

When I got in this time, though, it appeared to be fully charged.



View attachment 14479

View attachment 14480

View attachment 14481
@Gregory115, please read the post directly above yours... I updated about 6 hours before you posted :)

Thanks just seen that! Is she still running strong?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
Hi can a 12 volt battery on its way out cause the reduced performance indication to come on ? It would only drive in stealth mode not sport ! This indicated that the engine would not run ? It sat in the sun at 95 degrees before I attempted to drive home ! I drove it around a bit then shut it off and restarted and engine ran with sport mode being able to operate ! This was a Southern California car a bit cooler than Florida’s 95 degrees where battery’s only last about two years ! What is anyone’s thoughts ! Had two coders cleared then out before driving home ! Car seems normal but concerned about 12 V battery beginning to fail ? Is the Fisker battery a regular 12 v battery available from a local auto store ? Or a company I need to buy a replacement thanks
It is a regular battery. I replaced my MTX-48/H6 with a MTZ-48/H6 2 months ago. It is the newer model and fits perfect.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
86 Posts
I had a reduced performance issue as well. The power in the vehicle was very sporadic up and down. Sometimes the injured will not shut off at all other times it would act like it was in limp mode. After having the experts put it on a PRODIS, we discovered an issue with one of the battery pack modules. Once resolved, I no longer had any issues.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top