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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Today I was driving my Karma in Stealth mode at normal speed. When I stopped at a red light, suddenly the error message "Reduced Performance, contact Service Center" appeared (in red). I could drive the car back and after shutting it down and restarting it 5 minutes later, the message was gone and everything worked as before.

I suspect this has to do with the temperature in the battery as I heard the cooling fan.

Has anyone experienced this before and what was the solution for this problem?
 

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The cooling fan has nothing to do with the battery coolant. It has it's own chiller valve.

Reduced Performance can happen for all kinds of reasons. Considering you were in Stealth, I'd wonder about the integrity of the battery. Any codes that came up should still be in memory, I'd have the dealer at least check the codes to see whats up.
 

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I had this problem a few weeks ago and took it into Sewell, few days later they said that Fisker told them that it was a misfire code from the gas engine and that we should drive our car in sport mode more often. I think that is a bunch of bs but that code only came on once for me.
 

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I had this problem a few weeks ago and took it into Sewell, few days later they said that Fisker told them that it was a misfire code from the gas engine and that we should drive our car in sport mode more often. I think that is a bunch of bs but that code only came on once for me.
The info they gave you was correct about what too do if misfire codes are stored to drive the car in Sport more offen . Software version 615.5 was suppose to take care of that but I still saw cars having the same problem . Usually when you get a error displayed like the one posted it usually comes back to a HV battery faults reading the codes stored is the proper coarse of action
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The info they gave you was correct about what too do if misfire codes are stored to drive the car in Sport more offen . Software version 615.5 was suppose to take care of that but I still saw cars having the same problem . Usually when you get a error displayed like the one posted it usually comes back to a HV battery faults reading the codes stored is the proper coarse of action
Today I had the codes read at the importer and it indicated that the resistance in the HV circuit is around 7,5 kOhm, which is too low. This value should be between 1400 - 180 kOhm. It looks like there is either an isolation problem in one of the HV cables or one of the components that is connected to the HV circuit has a problem.

In two weeks I will take the car back in for more investigation. This is very disappointing but it needs to be fixed.
 

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What was he checking the High Voltage interlock circuit ? I wouldn't go by that OHM reading if your having an interlock problem you would have no propulsion at all . I've spent tons of time tracing that circuit out for various problems . If they are using Prodis to read out codes and have a interlock fault code then I would look into that problem .No code I doubt that's your problem . I have my own way of checking that circuit just using basic electrical fault tracing from one point to another checking continuity
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What was he checking the High Voltage interlock circuit ? I wouldn't go by that OHM reading if your having an interlock problem you would have no propulsion at all . I've spent tons of time tracing that circuit out for various problems . If they are using Prodis to read out codes and have a interlock fault code then I would look into that problem .No code I doubt that's your problem . I have my own way of checking that circuit just using basic electrical fault tracing from one point to another checking continuity
Thank you for your feedback HarleyGuy! I have asked them for the faultcode, should know more today so I can let you know. I am not sure what you mean by saying no code I doubt that's your problem. Do you mean the interlock circuit?

It would also be great if you could provide me more details on how to do the basic electrical fault tracing, i.e. which cables, how you do this etc.

If I can do stuff in our own shop would save us a great deal of money... thanks in advance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
If they dont use Fiskers work shop tool to read codes the codes are meaningless
I spoke with the technician today and they do use Prodis. The interlock fault code is P0A0D00. According to him, the interlock fault is not what worries them, he said that it can occur when someone switches on the ignition while a connector of a HV component is disconnected. Like you said, if there would really be a problem in the interlock system, the propulsion system would not be activated at all.

The conclusion is that the 750 ohm value might cause problems in the future, therefore he wants to investigate what causes it. It could be a HV component or a isolation fault in an HV cable.

What do you think?
 

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Then they will have the proper wiring diagrams . I use a simple way of checking the wiring I just check the wiring from one point to another since its one complete loop you can check for continuity at a few places the hardest place to check is at the traction motors so I check on the other side of the traction motors in the engine compartment . Last time I had a problem like that the contacts in the Generator inverter were bent a little I had to remove the HV cable connector and bend the terminals to make contact . The invertors are the only module that have the contractors internal the AC / The water heater are external .
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Then they will have the proper wiring diagrams . I use a simple way of checking the wiring I just check the wiring from one point to another since its one complete loop you can check for continuity at a few places the hardest place to check is at the traction motors so I check on the other side of the traction motors in the engine compartment . Last time I had a problem like that the contacts in the Generator inverter were bent a little I had to remove the HV cable connector and bend the terminals to make contact . The invertors are the only module that have the contractors internal the AC / The water heater are external .
OK thanks I will bring this to their attention, hopefully it helps to solve the problem. Is it easy to get to the connector in the generator inverter?

Still not sure if the fault message "Reduced performance" did indeed come up because of this, did you experience the same error message on the car with the bent contacts?
 

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Interesting thread. What does it mean if the Karma will not go into "Sport" mode and gives the reduced performance error? I am assuming this is probably a related cabling issue? I think I have this exact same problem on K2.
 

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The Reduced Performance Error message comes up in the middle of the instrument panel, right above where the range indicators are.

That message, like most others, can come up for lots of reasons. I recently drove a customers car over the weekend, waiting for it to finally fail so I could record data. It failed twice, both times showing the warning lights and Reduced Performance messages. Both times were for misfire issues.
 

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Harleyguy/Lormax, I didn't want to start another thread for something comparatively trivial, so I'll ask it here. The passenger door rattles on occasion. I can stop it by tweaking the window down slightly, about the amount of a drop-down.

Any advice? I want to do better than the DOE's 98% investment track record and get to 100% with my car.
 

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Rattle and not a wind noise? My first guess is the window regulator is tapping inside the door itself.
 

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You need too get someone in the back seat while you drive or you in the back seat find a road that causes it to rattle this way you can repeat the road test every time . Their is a adjustment that pitches the window in towards the seal and out away . I haven't had to adjust the rear glass only the front but the rear should have the same . Look under the door two rubber plugs remove the plugs 10mm nut loosen nut a little and adjust doesn't take much to move . You need to make sure what and where the rattle is coming from before you make any adjustments . Another thing I do with the door open I you my hand and bang on the door panel see if you hear a rattle that way .
 

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It's not wind noise. Definitely a rattle from the front paasenger's door/window. Thanks. I'll try your suggestions!
 

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Annoying passenger door rattle

Find a road that causes it to rattle this way you can repeat the road test every time . Their is a adjustment that pitches the window in towards the seal and out away . I haven't had to adjust the rear glass only the front but the rear should have the same . Look under the door two rubber plugs remove the plugs 10mm nut loosen nut a little and adjust doesn't take much to move . You need to make sure what and where the rattle is coming from before you make any adjustments . Another thing I do with the door open I you my hand and bang on the door panel see if you hear a rattle that way .
Wow! It took 30 seconds to fix an annoying intermittent rattle that I've been living with for 30 days. It was so bad at times, I hesitated to take friends for a ride. The Karma's window adjustment is simple and elegant. First I ran my finger along the rear window edge to see if the glass was flush with the doorpost. It wasn't on the passenger side. So I removed the rear rubber pad at the bottom of the door, loosened the 10mm nut, slid the adjustment in slightly and tightened the nut.

HarleyGuy - You da man! And Lormax, thanks for your kind offer to help as well!

What a great group to be associated with. :)
 
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