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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, thanks to all contributing to this forum - it is a key tool to be an owner.

My first post, I bought my Karma last year, after some search I found the one I wanted, Eco chic, Earth color with tritone interior. Also, it has a late VIN xxx2253.

I probably did all the wrong things when buying, I just decided to buy, and face the consequences..........

Car is In perfect shape, it also have the green, broken circle on the traction unit (?) - which I think / hope is good and all services done. It stills runs on 510, as it did when I got it, I wanted to upgrade to 530, but since I need to plan when going for the upgrade, I waited a bit, and now I will wait until the 535 is ready (unless recommended differently).

After some cleaning and polishing during the weekend, when I wanted to start the car I got "reduced performance - contact service center". I must admit that I also had checked the fuse box under the hood, just to learn a bit more on the car - box's was dusty, so I used some light, pressured air to blow out dust - also checked that all fuses and relays were properly connected - a few of the, especially one was halfway out. I also gave it a light spray of WD40.

Do not know if this is related to the error, but if so, the statement "...if it not broken, don't fix it" gives some relevance....:dodgy::huh:

Car has been working fine until now, and done 30k miles - so car has been used, which I learnt is important and more good than bad

Not done anything yet with the car. Would like to get some advice on order of doing things - I am thinking:

1: check OBDII codes - reset if any
2: if not working, do hard reset
3: if not working, order a flatbed, and get it to closest dealer

Any advices possible? :) something else I can do as preventive action. I never got any CEL and battery really give close to 50 miles. Battery is fully charged, and I normally keep car connected permanently, at low charging speed.

Thanks from Cold North - Norway - appreciate all comments. Kr Tor
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your fast feedback Harleyguy.

Been travelling, and now back. Tried a hard reset without success.

I noticed the following:

When charge cable is plugged in, and I engage start, the warning triangle does not light up, and I can switch between sport and stealth - everything seems normal, and it just seems to unplug the charge cable.

However, when doing this, I get the warning triangle, "01 Limp failure" in the diagnostic screen, and the following codes:

U0074
U0100
U0593
U0411

I realise that I have to go to the dealer, but it seems all a bit strange - everything functioned perfectly when I parked the car.

Any ideas with the above codes?

Kr/Tor
 

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You shouldn't leave the charge cable in when the car is put into ready mode . Did you have the charge cable in when you did the hard reset if you did do the hard reset again. Also does the reduce performance come right up when you put into ready mode?
And is the ready light flashing ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks.

Charge cable was not in when I did the hard reset. But to be sure, I did one again, no charge cable, car switch off (although the light in the P/D/N/R switch will not go out with the hood open (?)).

In short:
- no charge cable
- car off
- disconnecting the cable ( (Hard reset = disconnecting cable close to right hand side wing, the connecter there are some pictures of in this forum).
- Waiting 10 - 15 minutes.
- connecting the cable
- turn car on

Car counts up miles (km = 81 / 50 miles), however CEL, Warning triangle and No fuels lights are on - also fuel indicator are red (car is fully filled). Also break light comes, but just asking to calibrate the handbrake - holding the brake pedal, then I hear some small clicks, and handbrake is calibrated and OK.

When switching to START, "READY" light in green flashes, servo steering is engaged, headlight comes on etc all works as normal, however, I cannot get car in D or R.

Reduced performance in also coming, although I do not have any performance.

Looking at the diagnostic screen, the Q-drive is orange, and entering there, I get the code "01 Limp mode".

Another thing, but perhaps normal: when connecting the "hard reset" connector, no alarm sounds (stated on this forum that this will happen), as well as all settings are remember (radio stations, key fob name etc). Time zone is however going to New York.

Thanks again for feedback Harleyguy.

Kr/Tor
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Update: after a few hard resets - all of a sudden, it acted normal. I could put the car in D and took in for a short drive, keeping close to home in case....I engaged sport, to see if the ICE fired up. After a short while I got a check engine light (guessing soon before the engine would fire up), and after 2 minutes or some (been driving 2 km or so) the warning triangle came, and reduced performance came in the screen.

Clearly the fault seems to be related to ICE starting (or not starting). Battery is fully charged, so I can drive it now, so nothing wrong with the transmission etc - so I can hope that the car magically restore it self.....

By reading the forum, can the fault be related to some mechanical fixing of the ICE or related to humidity? It was a lot of rain, and car was parked outside during this rain. And the humidity slowly dries up?

Kr/Tor
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Update 2: hoping that the car would "restore" it self - I took it for a new drive. No CEL or other warnings during startup. Did the first 20 - 25 km in stealth, hoping the best, then engaging SPORT. While waiting for the CEL to come, I drove very carefully. No CEL or no other warnings. Then continuing in SPORT, and assuming the ICE would work to hold the charge, going up and down some hilly terrain - still no CEL. Drove totally 50+ km, and when going home, engine was warm, so clearly started.

By reading the forum, perhaps the coupler is on it way to go, or there may have been some humidity.

Gives of course some concerns for trusting the car when going more than half the EV range away from home, depending on ICE to get home.

Any ideas of what can have caused this, or is it just "moody"?


Kr/Tor
 

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Yes reduce performance will come on if the coupler is starting to fail. If the car works fine in Steath and only has the problem in ice I agree and suspect the coupler . Usually when you have a coupler going bad you can hear it rattle when the ice starts up
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Again, THANKS Harleyguy, it helps to limit down the root causes. I am by no means a very skilled DYI (I normally end up delivering the car / thing to competent people after waisting hours......), so eventually I will deliver the car to competent people - but I like to learn.

If I can bother you with some more questions:

1. If the coupler is going bad, it need to be replaced, and engine needs to go out (I learned in this forum). Any recommendation of other "jobs" to be undertaken while engine anyway is out? I think I saw "do not replace the flywheel" - but if other things can easier be accessed, just some tips would be appreciated.

2. Anyway of "lengthen" the life of the coupler, or is this a "wear & tear" part which expectedly will need a regular replace? My car has done 35k miles

E.g:
- wait for the car to get "warm" before engaging full power (which most people would do on a regular car (another car I have states in the owners manual, before driving, sit still and rev the car to 2000 rpm for 2 minutes before driving (when engine is cold)

- less hard acceleration in general?

- going on STEALHT during start of drive (10 - 15 minutes) before putting in SPORT - in order to allow the moving parts to get temperature

3. Is coupler fail correlated with higher km / miles done?

4. The codes I got and behaviour of car, and the partly restoring of functionality, still fits the coupler going bad? I see that I can experiment and verify buy only going STEALTH, and if no faults are coming, we have eliminated issues not related to ICE (?).

I must admit, when this fault came, I had just taken the car for a very short trip, and accelerated with full power - here in Norway we have just started spring, so temperature has been still in the +/- 5 degrees.

I do not hear clearly a "rattle" when ICE is engaging, but I can hear that it ICE is going to start (not the engine sound), but some sound, sounding either like a "spring" is released or a rattle - my language skills does not fully cover a better description of the sound - it is very weak though.

As I know, a lot of mechanical parts likes to be "warmed" up in a careful manner. I do not know how and what this coupler really do and if this apply to this part as well. I can reason from this forum that is the "connection" between the engine and the electrical engine when car is using ICE.

Or will the above make no sense?

Thanks - good to get the car moving again anyhow - it is not my daily car anyhow, but it shall be in top condition.
 

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The coupler is another poorly designed part I've seen cars with just a couple hundred miles with a broken coupler and other with over 30K. If I remember right Fisker tried a few different designs but never really had one that worked correctly the one in the car now is the closest they were able to get to work .
The flywheel generally doesn't need to be replaced I haven't seen one damaged from the coupler going bad .
 

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Again, THANKS Harleyguy, it helps to limit down the root causes. I am by no means a very skilled DYI (I normally end up delivering the car / thing to competent people after waisting hours......), so eventually I will deliver the car to competent people - but I like to learn.

If I can bother you with some more questions:

1. If the coupler is going bad, it need to be replaced, and engine needs to go out (I learned in this forum). Any recommendation of other "jobs" to be undertaken while engine anyway is out? I think I saw "do not replace the flywheel" - but if other things can easier be accessed, just some tips would be appreciated.

2. Anyway of "lengthen" the life of the coupler, or is this a "wear & tear" part which expectedly will need a regular replace? My car has done 35k miles

E.g:
- wait for the car to get "warm" before engaging full power (which most people would do on a regular car (another car I have states in the owners manual, before driving, sit still and rev the car to 2000 rpm for 2 minutes before driving (when engine is cold)

- less hard acceleration in general?

- going on STEALHT during start of drive (10 - 15 minutes) before putting in SPORT - in order to allow the moving parts to get temperature

3. Is coupler fail correlated with higher km / miles done?

4. The codes I got and behaviour of car, and the partly restoring of functionality, still fits the coupler going bad? I see that I can experiment and verify buy only going STEALTH, and if no faults are coming, we have eliminated issues not related to ICE (?).

I must admit, when this fault came, I had just taken the car for a very short trip, and accelerated with full power - here in Norway we have just started spring, so temperature has been still in the +/- 5 degrees.

I do not hear clearly a "rattle" when ICE is engaging, but I can hear that it ICE is going to start (not the engine sound), but some sound, sounding either like a "spring" is released or a rattle - my language skills does not fully cover a better description of the sound - it is very weak though.

As I know, a lot of mechanical parts likes to be "warmed" up in a careful manner. I do not know how and what this coupler really do and if this apply to this part as well. I can reason from this forum that is the "connection" between the engine and the electrical engine when car is using ICE.

Or will the above make no sense?

Thanks - good to get the car moving again anyhow - it is not my daily car anyhow, but it shall be in top condition.
Hello Tbjorge.

Did you ever get your car checked out? I am in the same situation since 30 minutes ago and the closest service place is 1000 km away. Don´t know exactly what to do, I assume you have similar problems in Oslo..?

Br Henrik
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Hi Henrik,

After a few hard resets, all came back to normal, and has worked since. It broke a bit the confidence, so I considered where to park until I got my car checked. I got the car upgraded to 535 during the visit Karma did to Denmark earlier this year. I then talked with the service engineer from Karma (coming from US), and he basically told me that I should not worry too much about the coupler - it works until it does not - but it can also last.

After getting 535 I have had two or three incidents with a blinking "READY" - solved by hard reset. Not sure, but it seems to be connected with switching the car a bit "rushed" on and off, opening and closing of doors etc. Not able to find a pattern of course.

I have read in other posts that some are waiting for the start up screen etc to clear, basically being a bit more patient. After I have started this as well, I have not had any incidents....of course, not sure if this really is related, but - it does not harm.

Good luck.
 

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Hello Tbjorge.

Thx for your reply. Always helps to hear about others experience. Hope that Karma Automative does another visit to denmark, need to upgrade, check my heating in stealthmode plus some other small issues.

Thx
 
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