[caricia78]

anyone having issues with their parking brake and warning light. It seems every time I use it, and a few times I havent, the warning light comes on and says take to dealer. this last time, it asked me to calibrate it and then it turned off. the brakes seem to squeal a little more than usual around the times the warning light comes on (its always when first starting the car from stopping- 1/2 the time when Ive use the parking brake and the other 1/2 of the time I havent used it).
any ideas?
Thanks!

 

[EVer1]

no issues for me with the parking brake.

 

[Deep Ocean]

Me neither. No issues

 

[P90XMC2]

i had that on the first month i got the car for about 4 times, it's gone now, i guess i got used to the right parking sequence.

 

[ghost2]

The brake squealing probably has nothing to do with the parking brake. The squeal is there in cold and rainy weather because your car doesn't have the shim + grease kits installed which take care of most of the noise. The rear brakes make the most noise without those kits. No 2012 vehicle was originally built with the shim kits.

The parking brake ECU is unfortunately resetting on your car, which could be due to disconnection of 12V or a ground issue, or the cable itself is getting stuck. The low VIN vehicles had a ground strap added in the front right kick panel that often is intermittent. You would need an ability to read the park brake ECU fault codes to see what's going wrong.

Vehicles stored for a long time with the park brake applied (ie, unsold at a dealer or at a port for months and months) often have damage to the nylon coating on the park brake cable at the back of the car, the rear cable attached to the park brake actuator motor. This nylon coating has been seen to get a bit chewed up if it sits at full tension. Then when the motor disengages the cable, the cable strand doesn't go back into the conduit housing and gets stuck. At that point, the ECU recognizes that the park brake didn't fully disengage, and it tries again to retract fully (you will hear it click a bunch of times as it goes to full retraction) and then disables itself. You can peek through the rear fascia valance and see if the cable strand plastic coating is damaged at that point.

If I were to bet, I'd suspect the cable. You don't actually need a new one... just need to trim off the damaged nylon around the strand and it should retract smoothly. The fascia will have to be removed to see it. It's an easy fix.

The moral of the story is don't park your car for a year with the park brake applied.

 

[Harleyguy]

The brake squealing probably has nothing to do with the parking brake. The squeal is there in cold and rainy weather because your car doesn't have the shim + grease kits installed which take care of most of the noise. The rear brakes make the most noise without those kits. No 2012 vehicle was originally built with the shim kits.

The parking brake ECU is unfortunately resetting on your car, which could be due to disconnection of 12V or a ground issue, or the cable itself is getting stuck. The low VIN vehicles had a ground strap added in the front right kick panel that often is intermittent. You would need an ability to read the park brake ECU fault codes to see what's going wrong.

Vehicles stored for a long time with the park brake applied (ie, unsold at a dealer or at a port for months and months) often have damage to the nylon coating on the park brake cable at the back of the car, the rear cable attached to the park brake actuator motor. This nylon coating has been seen to get a bit chewed up if it sits at full tension. Then when the motor disengages the cable, the cable strand doesn't go back into the conduit housing and gets stuck. At that point, the ECU recognizes that the park brake didn't fully disengage, and it tries again to retract fully (you will hear it click a bunch of times as it goes to full retraction) and then disables itself. You can peek through the rear fascia valance and see if the cable strand plastic coating is damaged at that point.

If I were to bet, I'd suspect the cable. You don't actually need a new one... just need to trim off the damaged nylon around the strand and it should retract smoothly. The fascia will have to be removed to see it. It's an easy fix.

The moral of the story is don't park your car for a year with the park brake applied.

If no one has welcomed to the forum I would like to welcome you and thank you for some insight on the parking park system .I assume you are a Ex Fisker engineer

 

[smggsm]

The brake squealing probably has nothing to do with the parking brake. The squeal is there in cold and rainy weather because your car doesn't have the shim + grease kits installed which take care of most of the noise. The rear brakes make the most noise without those kits. No 2012 vehicle was originally built with the shim kits.

The parking brake ECU is unfortunately resetting on your car, which could be due to disconnection of 12V or a ground issue, or the cable itself is getting stuck. The low VIN vehicles had a ground strap added in the front right kick panel that often is intermittent. You would need an ability to read the park brake ECU fault codes to see what's going wrong.

Vehicles stored for a long time with the park brake applied (ie, unsold at a dealer or at a port for months and months) often have damage to the nylon coating on the park brake cable at the back of the car, the rear cable attached to the park brake actuator motor. This nylon coating has been seen to get a bit chewed up if it sits at full tension. Then when the motor disengages the cable, the cable strand doesn't go back into the conduit housing and gets stuck. At that point, the ECU recognizes that the park brake didn't fully disengage, and it tries again to retract fully (you will hear it click a bunch of times as it goes to full retraction) and then disables itself. You can peek through the rear fascia valance and see if the cable strand plastic coating is damaged at that point.

If I were to bet, I'd suspect the cable. You don't actually need a new one... just need to trim off the damaged nylon around the strand and it should retract smoothly. The fascia will have to be removed to see it. It's an easy fix.

The moral of the story is don't park your car for a year with the park brake applied.

who are you??? i just wanna thank you for the nice easy instruction to follow..
emergency brake stuck car wont move error message with grinding skipping noise in the back
yes ..trimming the cable solve the problem ,, calibrated the braked and its good to go..

 

[scurry1074]

Rear Parking Brakes Lock UP!!!

Parking brake locked rear wheels in bank parking lot for 6 hours then finally released after several soft and hard resets. I don't have any ideal why it finally released.

Since I had my Fisker (about year and half) I have often got the recalibrate the parking brake warning indicator and after a couple recalibrations it will go away only to come back again a week or so later. It has never locked the rear brakes like it did.

Since AAA a was taking so long I kept trying different things that Lomax suggested include taking off the rear wheel to see if I could remove the cable that locks the brakes. I removed the one screw but couldn't get the cable to pull out so I put the screw and the wheel back on and left that alone.

I was trying my best to get the parking brake to release because I hate taking my vehicle to the dealer.

They keep the car for two weeks and they never seem to fix anything. I complained about this brake recalibration warning indicator before and once they do a reset just like I would do they give me the vehicle back and telling me it's fixed. As soon as I pull out the dealer lot the warning comes back. The weather has broke and last thing I want is the Fisker sitting up at the dealer for two weeks. I'm ready to drive!!!

I'm afraid to do the brake recalibration think again because the brakes might lock up again.

Can someone tell me what is the most likely culprit that's causing this problem?

Lomax told me that there was four components involved, the switch, a module, the motor and of course the cables. Since the dealer doesn't seem to be as knowledgeable as the guys here in this forum when I do take the car back for service I would like to direct them in the right direction so that this problem can be finally fixed.

Samuel

 

[Harleyguy]

What else would you like to know Lomax has answered you

 

[scurry1074]

The dealer has never fixed this problem with the parking brake recalibration error. The vehicle has been to the dealer 3 times for this problem and it is not resolved.

Lomax said that he had never encountered this problem before. I was hoping that someone else may had this problem and new the likely fix.

Samuel

 

[Lormax]

You hadn't mentioned that the car loses its calibration constantly when we spoke. I've only ever seen a Karma lose its e-brake calibration when a hard reset is performed. You definitely have something going on with your e-brake system. It'll probably take more diagnosis than what we can guess at over the forums, but my bet is either the module or the motor. The module may not be sending the release signal. The motor may be getting the release signal but not performing it. Again, it takes proper diagnosis before throwing parts at it.

 

[Harleyguy]

The dealer has never fixed this problem with the parking brake recalibration error. The vehicle has been to the dealer 3 times for this problem and it is not resolved.

Lomax said that he had never encountered this problem before. I was hoping that someone else may had this problem and new the likely fix.

Samuel

If it is the parking brake module which I feel it is .Fisker has none at this time best hope is to located a wrecked Karma and get it from that one .

 

[Fabulist]

Parking brake locked rear wheels in bank parking lot for 6 hours then finally released after several soft and hard resets. I don't have any ideal why it finally released.

Since I had my Fisker (about year and half) I have often got the recalibrate the parking brake warning indicator and after a couple recalibrations it will go away only to come back again a week or so later. It has never locked the rear brakes like it did.

Since AAA a was taking so long I kept trying different things that Lomax suggested include taking off the rear wheel to see if I could remove the cable that locks the brakes. I removed the one screw but couldn't get the cable to pull out so I put the screw and the wheel back on and left that alone.

I was trying my best to get the parking brake to release because I hate taking my vehicle to the dealer.

They keep the car for two weeks and they never seem to fix anything. I complained about this brake recalibration warning indicator before and once they do a reset just like I would do they give me the vehicle back and telling me it's fixed. As soon as I pull out the dealer lot the warning comes back. The weather has broke and last thing I want is the Fisker sitting up at the dealer for two weeks. I'm ready to drive!!!

I'm afraid to do the brake recalibration think again because the brakes might lock up again.

Can someone tell me what is the most likely culprit that's causing this problem?

Lomax told me that there was four components involved, the switch, a module, the motor and of course the cables. Since the dealer doesn't seem to be as knowledgeable as the guys here in this forum when I do take the car back for service I would like to direct them in the right direction so that this problem can be finally fixed.

Samuel

If it is the parking brake module which I feel it is .Fisker has none at this time best hope is to located a wrecked Karma and get it from that one .

Would it make sense to disable or disconnect the parking brake module in the meantime? If it in fact engages by itself and then refuses to let go, it may be easier to turn it off and carry a wheel chock or a brick for the rare occasion that you need to use it than risk being immobilized when it grabs and refuses to let go. Not sure if this is actually possible, just a suggestion.

 

[scurry1074]

Fabulist

It locks the wheels only when I attempt to recalibrate the parking brake to clear the warning message that keep coming on. Right now I just let the warning message keep flashing because I don't want to take a chance and it lock up again.

I want to get it fixed but as Harleyguy said, if it's the module that causing the problem the part is not available. I've had this problem since I had the car. After I recalibrate it might last a day, a week or a month before the warning message comes back on.

Samuel

 

[Lormax]

I have the part, both the module and the motor.

 

[scurry1074]

Lormax

I have a call in to the dealer in Troy MI to see if they can trobleshoot this. In the past they were not able to fix this problem. I will find out if they are still servicing the Fisker Karma.

I'm wondering if the guys at VL-Automotive (Destino) can service the Karma? One would think that they have developed a great deal of experience taking Karma's apart.

Samuel

 

[Harleyguy]

Lormax

I have a call in to the dealer in Troy MI to see if they can trobleshoot this. In the past they were not able to fix this problem. I will find out if they are still servicing the Fisker Karma.

I'm wondering if the guys at VL-Automotive (Destino) can service the Karma? One would think that they have developed a great deal of experience taking Karma's apart.

Samuel

Don't count on the guys at VL to be able to help you they really don't have as much knowledge as you think . You don't have to pay that much money to have someone take apart a car . And if I'am correct Fisker techs helped dismantled the Karmas that would become Destinos .

 

[Lormax]

Yep, mostly the Build Techs from FA.

 

[ghost2]

If you don't have a dealership tool to properly diagnose the park brake ECU and read trouble codes (it tells you exactly what's wrong), I'd start by checking the electrical ground for the park brake ECU up by the front right kick panel, and make sure it's not loose or out of position, especially for early vins. If you got a calibrate apply message randomly a few times, that's likely part of the issue. For the stuck applied issue, I'd peer through the rear valance panel with a bright flashlight at the park brake equalizer and check for frayed plastic around the cable strand (wire) which is preventing it from mechanically releasing into the conduit, as I wrote earlier in this thread. Note that you can only see this damage if the park brake is fully applied, because if it retracts into the conduit you won't see any of the wear. When it tries to releas, the park brake ECU counts the number of turns so it knows if it got stuck somewhere along the way. It applies maximum current for a little while and then gives up, leaving you stuck with it applied. If the strand is okay, the ECU is more likely at fault. It's in a vulnerable spot under the dash because water sealing wasn't so well developed on the car, and as a result they can die like the CIU which is right above it. Although since you said the recalibrate message happens randomly and sometimes works fine, I'd lean towards the ground issue or the cable hanging up on its plastic coating. If it had no trouble codes when stuck, it is probably the ECU. Good luck! :fisker::thumbup:

 

[SoCalGuy]

Ghost - here's a follow up question for you. On one of my Karmas, the 12V died due to non-use. So I tried jumping the Karma and I got the system into Ready mode. Thinking I could recharge the 12V, I left the Karma in Ready mode for 20 minutes. At the end of that, I did the brake calibration thing and it didn't fully engage. I turned the Karma off and tried to turn it back on - no luck. 12V hadn't recharged. Changed the 12V with a new one and all was well with the Karma (radio presets and homelink settings were intact!) but brake calibration error popped up again. So I followed the instructions and heard rapid clicking, an engage/disengage sound, rapid clicking and again same disengage/engage sound and it said Service park brake. Car can still move so obviously parking brake is not applied. Any idea for what's causing this? Never had an issue with this before the 12V battery problem.