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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive. But yesterday after pulling into my street i went back to Stealth and then the powerloss again (somehow logical). I went back to Sport Mode but then I got many warnings on the display and a big red sign "Out of Energy". I barelly made it to my parking lot. :-(
Since this was yesterday night I did nothing but I guess I will need to call the help line. Did anybody else get the "Out of Energy" warning?
 

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This really sounds like an individual problem. I run out of battery power very often. The ICE then kicks in automatically and I have full power from that without any problems. Dash still shows "stealth" in that case. Other than the sound there is no way for me to read off the dash that the ICE is running.
 

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michaelCA said:
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive. But yesterday after pulling into my street i went back to Stealth and then the powerloss again (somehow logical). I went back to Sport Mode but then I got many warnings on the display and a big red sign "Out of Energy". I barelly made it to my parking lot. :-(
Since this was yesterday night I did nothing but I guess I will need to call the help line. Did anybody else get the "Out of Energy" warning?
Def taking it to your dealer - might be a cooling problem with the battery (or bad temp sensors) in which case the car thinks the battery is running too hot and limits power draw from the battery. In Sport mode, power goes straight from the generator to the motors, bypassing the battery in most instances.
 

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flying dutchman said:
Other than the sound there is no way for me to read off the dash that the ICE is running.
Actually, there is. It's subtle and it took someone on this forum to point it out to me.

On the Energy screen on the command center you see an outline of the vehicle with a "driveshaft" running the length of the car. In Sport mode, the ICE and half of the driveshaft are in orange, and the rest of the driveshaft is white, with an shaded animated graphic depicting energy flow. In stealth mode you see the ICE and driveshaft as white with the animation showing energy flow. When you are in stealth mode but the ICE has kicked on due to a depleted battery, the ICE and driveshaft show a solid white without the flow animation. It's actually a stark difference when you look at the display and easy to differentiate from regular stealth mode.

Another subtle thing that the Energy screen tells you is the effectiveness of the solar panel. The energy screen depicts the solar roof and has an animation over it in all cases, even at night. The solar roof itself however is depicted as a grid of small rectangles. These rectangles themselves turn white as the roof generates electricity. The more direct sunlight (and hense power generated) the more of the solar roof is displayed as white rectangles. Again the difference is obvious once you know what to look for. Look at the screen when parked in the shade (or at night) and then look again when parked in direct sunlight.


Brent
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
SoCalGuy said:
michaelCA said:
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive. But yesterday after pulling into my street i went back to Stealth and then the powerloss again (somehow logical). I went back to Sport Mode but then I got many warnings on the display and a big red sign "Out of Energy". I barelly made it to my parking lot. :-(
Since this was yesterday night I did nothing but I guess I will need to call the help line. Did anybody else get the "Out of Energy" warning?
Def taking it to your dealer - might be a cooling problem with the battery (or bad temp sensors) in which case the car thinks the battery is running too hot and limits power draw from the battery. In Sport mode, power goes straight from the generator to the motors, bypassing the battery in most instances.
SoCal, so it is true that the generator bypass the battery and go straight to the motors. It feels very weird when I push the gas, then it takes 0.2s and the ICE runs higher rpm, 0.5s later you feel the power. Actually it feels like a very old automatic gear when the kick back jumps in. Do you have the same?
 

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michaelCA said:
SoCalGuy said:
michaelCA said:
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive. But yesterday after pulling into my street i went back to Stealth and then the powerloss again (somehow logical). I went back to Sport Mode but then I got many warnings on the display and a big red sign "Out of Energy". I barelly made it to my parking lot. :-(
Since this was yesterday night I did nothing but I guess I will need to call the help line. Did anybody else get the "Out of Energy" warning?
Def taking it to your dealer - might be a cooling problem with the battery (or bad temp sensors) in which case the car thinks the battery is running too hot and limits power draw from the battery. In Sport mode, power goes straight from the generator to the motors, bypassing the battery in most instances.
SoCal, so it is true that the generator bypass the battery and go straight to the motors. It feels very weird when I push the gas, then it takes 0.2s and the ICE runs higher rpm, 0.5s later you feel the power. Actually it feels like a very old automatic gear when the kick back jumps in. Do you have the same?
I run my car very often in Sport mode and I haven't noticed any lag really. That said, I've never run down the battery to zero and driven fully on the range extend mode. I'll try that soon.
 

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SoCalGuy said:
michaelCA said:
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive. But yesterday after pulling into my street i went back to Stealth and then the powerloss again (somehow logical). I went back to Sport Mode but then I got many warnings on the display and a big red sign "Out of Energy". I barelly made it to my parking lot. :-(
Since this was yesterday night I did nothing but I guess I will need to call the help line. Did anybody else get the "Out of Energy" warning?
Def taking it to your dealer - might be a cooling problem with the battery (or bad temp sensors) in which case the car thinks the battery is running too hot and limits power draw from the battery. In Sport mode, power goes straight from the generator to the motors, bypassing the battery in most instances.
I experienced that error when I first picked up my car because the HV had fallen below the 15% minimum SOC while the car had sat in storage and could not be topped off due to a bug in software version 613. As a result, the car would not even work in Sport mode and I experienced the same symptoms you did, including the "Out of Energy" message. Here is the thread if you like to read up on it.

At the time, we had to hard reboot the car to get it to start and then I started driving it on local roads in Sport mode until the battery got charged up to 15%, and I never experienced the problem since then.

Your car seems to have a bad battery or another problem in the HV electrical system that makes the computer think that your HV battery has fallen below 15%. You should definitely have the problem investigated and fixed by the dealer. As far as I know, there are no DIY solutions for this one.
 

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LonePalmBJ said:
flying dutchman said:
Other than the sound there is no way for me to read off the dash that the ICE is running.
Actually, there is. It's subtle and it took someone on this forum to point it out to me.

On the Energy screen on the command center you see an outline of the vehicle with a "driveshaft" running the length of the car. In Sport mode, the ICE and half of the driveshaft are in orange, and the rest of the driveshaft is white, with an shaded animated graphic depicting energy flow. In stealth mode you see the ICE and driveshaft as white with the animation showing energy flow. When you are in stealth mode but the ICE has kicked on due to a depleted battery, the ICE and driveshaft show a solid white without the flow animation. It's actually a stark difference when you look at the display and easy to differentiate from regular stealth mode.

Another subtle thing that the Energy screen tells you is the effectiveness of the solar panel. The energy screen depicts the solar roof and has an animation over it in all cases, even at night. The solar roof itself however is depicted as a grid of small rectangles. These rectangles themselves turn white as the roof generates electricity. The more direct sunlight (and hense power generated) the more of the solar roof is displayed as white rectangles. Again the difference is obvious once you know what to look for. Look at the screen when parked in the shade (or at night) and then look again when parked in direct sunlight.


Brent
tnx. I'll check the energy screen next time and will take some pics.
 

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michaelCA said:
I wrote my other thread about 50 miles distance on battery. Also that my ICE does not jump in when battery goes low. I just lose power. Yesterday something new happened. I drove with full charge to a mall and back. After 30 miles and shown 8 miles left I lost power again. Means that if I step on the gas there is just no reaction and the car slows slowly down. Then I manually start the ICE (Sport mode) and then usually I can drive.
Michael, I did have a similar experience. Once it happened, it repeated 2 more times in the same day (but never before). My dealer took the car in relatively immediately and installed 6.28 software; the symptoms have not recurred. I think you should ask your dealer to have a look. Here is the thread I asked for Fisker Buzz forum help on: Any ideas for me? (Sorry, I don't know how to imbed the thread.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ever1, thank you. Your problem matches exactly mine. I have an appointment on Tuesday with the dealer. Since I am leaving the country for some days they have enough days to fix it. Thank you!
 
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