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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
After driving the car for a day, there are several issues that I have noticed and I need guidance.

As per my other post, I did roll over a concrete parking block and that pulled the front driver side off a little and will need to be addressed. My bad, know that I will need to take care of that. I am hoping since the dealer didn't put the new tires on it as promised, that this will be easy to fix when they do so next week. That being said, I just purchased the car used with 5,400 miles on it last evening. It was an as is, no warranty purchase. ( I should have known)

1) Some of the modules are bad. I went from 13 miles to 0 in 2 seconds on the way home today. After I got to zero and was in sport mode, while I was around 60 mph, there was a grinding noise when I put my foot on the accelerator. The indicator on the right side of the dash was on the low end of the power line in between regenerating and using power. This happened for about 5 miles and then stopped. Is this an RDM/TM issue, or a part of switching to sport as the stealth went to 0? I did not think it was from the front end since it was ONLY when I put my foot on the accelerator.

2) Now knowing this issue, how long can this car be driven with bad modules? Can I switch between stealth until around 25-30 miles and then drive in sport for a period of time so I can save to get the modules fixed? Obviously not going to get the miles per gallon, but just had a huge cash outlay and can't afford a $10,000 bill right now. Had hoped to get at least another 5,000 miles out of the car prior to needing to fix anything.

3) The tire pressure light went on last night about 10 miles out from the dealer. Added air to the tires this morning, but it still has not reset.

4) The engine light went on this afternoon prior to charging from 16 miles to 27 miles. I am charging it now to see if this resets when it is fully charged. Hoping this is the case.

5) Last issue is the bluetooth phone. There is a loud crackling noise when I speak on the phone. The dealer suggested I delete the connection on my phone and re-pair. This did not get rid of the issue.

Any input from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I am like everyone else. I LOVE the car! But should have expected the bad feeling I had yesterday was intuition and I should have followed it. And Harleyguy, than you for speaking with me yesterday. I unfortunately did not have the opportunity to check out the battery prior to picking it up in the ways you suggested. Would have been a deal breaker if I had been able to test the car prior to purchasing. The battery had held a 70% charge since I drove it last month so I thought we would be ok for awhile.
 

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Can't speak to most of these, but for #3 (TPMS), it's very slow to reset, mine took a couple of days I think, and for #5 (bluetooth crackle), it depends on your phone model but one thing that can help is to tweak the volume down on the phone and up on the Karma.
 

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Were any of these issues present when you test drove the car? I had them run the car to 20 miles range before my test drive and then verified it went down sequentially thereafter.

was the grinding noise there ?

if you just bought it yesterday I would vigorously attempt to return the car to them as they knowingly covered up some flaws. Maybe even have your attorney contact them.
 

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Your CEL is related to your battery issue more then likely
TPMS takes 8 miles of driving if it will reset .
Blue tooth lower the volume on you phone I Phones especially
You can drive with bad modules as long as the cars runs they won't get any better and the cells in the modules are bad all ready.You need the dealer to check how many modules show weak or how many cells per module are bad .
Need to know how many are bad modules are getting hard to come by .
The noises you hear could be anything
I'm not sure but I think by law you have a certain time period you can return the car
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How long does it take to check the modules? Is it an easy stop in type of test, or does it take hours with disassembly of the car/battery?
 

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If you got a loan on the car you have three days to return the car I believe.... I would get an attorney and contact the dealer immediately and just start over
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
If you got a loan on the car you have three days to return the car I believe.... I would get an attorney and contact the dealer immediately and just start over
We did get a loan, but it was through an outside bank. The dealer was smart...However, there are a few small issues like the TPMS, Bluetooth feedback, etc., that were documented in service records. Non disclosure is a 30 day return option, and I was told that they had serviced the car and it was in great condition so that was the only reason they would sell it to me. Unfortunately, I cannot say that they knew about the battery. I am sure that the previous owner knew and that's why he traded it in. There's no way to know if he told the dealership though. I am going to email the Used Car Manager today and let him know. I am supposed to bring the car in this week because they were supposed to put on new tires from a car they had on the lot. They did not do this in the front, so I need bring it back to correct this. I will have them check the modules at that time and go from there. I absolutely love the car, and really don't want to have to start over, so hopefully these issues can be resolved and the bad modules are not extensive.
 

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1) You learn very quickly in the Karma to always, always, always back into a parking space, otherwise, the nose/front bumper can end up laying on the ground.

2) I would hire an attorney to investigate every option in getting the dealer to buy the car back from you for the price you paid. It's nice to hear that you like this Karma...but there are other Karmas out there, many of which do not have issues with their batteries. If you jumped on this Karma because the price was good, be aware that you can *quickly* erase any savings trying to repair the battery or other systems in the car. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
1) You learn very quickly in the Karma to always, always, always back into a parking space, otherwise, the nose/front bumper can end up laying on the ground.

2) I would hire an attorney to investigate every option in getting the dealer to buy the car back from you for the price you paid. It's nice to hear that you like this Karma...but there are other Karmas out there, many of which do not have issues with their batteries. If you jumped on this Karma because the price was good, be aware that you can *quickly* erase any savings trying to repair the battery or other systems in the car. Good luck!
Thanks Weird Fishes! After driving the car for a few days, there are still a few issues, but I am not as panicked as I was last Friday. We did not jump at this car, in fact it took us over a month before the sale went through and I spoke with several people, including HarleyGuy who was kind enough to check the VIN for me last week, and there were no red flags.

1) I was able to fix the front bumper for $62.00, and I have been backing into spaces ever since.

2) I still cannot get the tire pressure light to go off yet, but my husband put too much air in the tires. I have seen the recommended psi on this forum. Unfortunately, there is no sticker on the inside of the driver door that I was able to go by last week. I need to let some air out of the tires and see if this resets it. If not, and if hard charging the battery does not reset, I will do a hard reset as some others on this forum have done for this issue. It wasn't on when we test drove or picked up the car, so it does go off.

3) I just purchased the 240v charger and will have that installed next week. Once I do, I will do as FiskerPhilly suggested and hard charge the battery to make sure it is not just an issue with balancing the modules. Hopefully this is the case!

4) The grinding noise I've realized is not really a grinding noise and only happens in Sport Mode. When I get up to about 70 mph there is a vibration type noise that happens when I take my foot off of the accelerator or press the accelerator. As long as it holds the indicator line at the bottom of the acceleration gauge, I hear the noise. Once the indicator goes above this, or below into the regeneration gauge, it stops. Apparently, this was something that the previous owner had questioned as was the tire pressure light, they just could not get the issue to duplicate when it was brought in for service. This was not disclosed to me at the time of sale, in fact, I was told that the only reason they would sell it to me is because they had serviced it and knew the car to be in good condition.

The manager I dealt with has been out for the past two weeks, but will be back tomorrow. I have already discussed a couple of the smaller issues with him, but have sent him an email with the larger concerns, such as the battery. If it is a serious battery issue, I will be vigorously fighting the dealership. I have 30 days to return the car for non-disclosure and will fight if need be. Hoping this will not be necessary, as I really do love the car and look forward to getting into every morning!
 

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@haredi so sorry to hear yet another of these stories. Theres alot of cars out there with hidden, undisclosed battery issues. Mainly due to the fact that there is little documentation to prove it was known, for example any Fisker owner can simply browse this forum and gain enough knowledge to self diagnose their battery enough to ditch the car at another high end dealer and play dumb...its a very risky market out there right now. Good luck with your situation and if you need advice you can pm me or contact me my info is on my site.
 

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This is a really painful thread to read - I cannot understand after reading you have a 30day return window on the car you just don't return the car?

There are a number of other Fiskers available. I'm stumped.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
This is a really painful thread to read - I cannot understand after reading you have a 30day return window on the car you just don't return the car?

There are a number of other Fiskers available. I'm stumped.
DHH, As I mentioned, the 30 day return window is a little more complicated than that. You have to show they purposely deceived you by not disclosing the issues. Small things like the TPM I would assume are an easy fix. a new battery and/or TM is not. However, until these items are assessed and confirmed, I have no standing to return the car. I'm waiting on confirmation of the issues. The manager that we worked with was out while I picked up the car, and just came back today. I have already emailed him with my concerns and expectations regarding diagnosing the problems. The purpose of my post was to get input on possible causes so I would be knowledgeable when dealing with the technician
so I am not taken advantage of again.
 

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The battery modules can be checked just by hooking up the Fisker laptop we look at codes and live data . As far as repair that takes a full day providing we have a module in stock . Also understand new modules aren't available anymore we use modules out of battery packs that have a good module . 15 modules in the battery but they are in groupes you can only use a module that's out of that group
 
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