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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone. looking for an advice.
I've had my Fisker for a few years and had no issues, other than finding suspension parts for it)
Looks like my time has come.
There was a few times ( occasional) when the car went into the limp mode, but a hard reset fixed the issue.
Now one day I drove for a few miles, than the limp mode kicked in. The hard reset did not help a lot as this happened again at the next stop light. (driving in sport, apr 30 miles left on the battery charge)
Now the car would not respond to the gas pedal. another hard reset and I was able to to get it off the road and turned into the some service plaza.
CE light was on, limp mode was on. Reset did not help no more. The limp/CE light was on minutes later.

I managed to get the car back to my garage. Charged it to a 100% ( 50 miles) and ordered a Vgate code scanner.
Meanwhile the car would drive fine ( back and fourth, around the block).
Oh and the low key fob battery light came on. Replaced the battery (2nd time in 6 months).
When the scanner came in I took it for a ride.
Drove just fine for about 5 miles then again no throttle response, but at this same time no CE light or limp mode was on.
Turn it OFF/ON - the car gets rolling and immediately I get no response from the throttle and still no codes.
Does it in both stealth and sport mode.

Any suggestions/help is appreciated.
Also, located in North Miami, so please let me know if anyone can look at it locally. 786.494.0491

One thing I did recently - I lightly washed the engine bay area, which was not the smartest thing to do.
The battery pack was replaced 4 years ago.
Alex.
 

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Sorry for the late reply, I just now saw this in the monthly email.

I had a similar experience last year:


Water in the VCM was my problem, and I suspect it's your problem, too.

I parked it in the garage, hood up, for about a month so that it could dry out. After that, I haven't had any more problems.

But I also don't drive it in the rain, and haven't washed it since last year. The "fix" is to create a type of dam with silicone to prevent water from infiltrating the VCM again, but I haven't quite figured out how to do it myself and I'm 12 hours from FiskerPhilly.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry for the late reply, I just now saw this in the monthly email.

I had a similar experience last year:


Water in the VCM was my problem, and I suspect it's your problem, too.

I parked it in the garage, hood up, for about a month so that it could dry out. After that, I haven't had any more problems.

But I also don't drive it in the rain, and haven't washed it since last year. The "fix" is to create a type of dam with silicone to prevent water from infiltrating the VCM again, but I haven't quite figured out how to do it myself and I'm 12 hours from FiskerPhilly.
Thank you! I will look into that, try to dry it out and post the results. The only thing that confuses me is that there are no check engine or any other kind of lights now.
 

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That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.
That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.
That is true :)
 

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Inverters are overheating probably. Check the coolant in the RS fender reservoir. Should see coolant in it. 1-2" from top. GM dexcool.
If it's low, most likely sources of Low temp coolant leaks are cracked traction motor or gen case welds or porosity. Or a damaged low temp cooler in the bumper.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Inverters are overheating probably. Check the coolant in the RS fender reservoir. Should see coolant in it. 1-2" from top. GM dexcool.
If it's low, most likely sources of Low temp coolant leaks are cracked traction motor or gen case welds or porosity. Or a damaged low temp cooler in the bumper.
Thank you.
You know, that is a good suggestion. I actually did remove the front bumper in order to pull the headlights out ( to get it re-coated with clear ) and after that the issues started to happen.
Can you explain please where exactly the low temp cooler located? Isn't that the one by the wheel on the passenger side? I noticed it was kinda hard to align the frame back in place and some wiring was in the way it when I was putting it back together. Is there a way to test it to make sure it operates as it should?

It finally cleared after heavy raining and wind here in south Florida. I'm going to take a closer look at the VCM as GoNC2 suggested as well as check the coolant/inverter cooling.

I appreciate your responses guys. Will post the results in a few days.
 
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