[speedyal]

Hey everyone. looking for an advice.
I've had my Fisker for a few years and had no issues, other than finding suspension parts for it)
Looks like my time has come.
There was a few times ( occasional) when the car went into the limp mode, but a hard reset fixed the issue.
Now one day I drove for a few miles, than the limp mode kicked in. The hard reset did not help a lot as this happened again at the next stop light. (driving in sport, apr 30 miles left on the battery charge)
Now the car would not respond to the gas pedal. another hard reset and I was able to to get it off the road and turned into the some service plaza.
CE light was on, limp mode was on. Reset did not help no more. The limp/CE light was on minutes later.

I managed to get the car back to my garage. Charged it to a 100% ( 50 miles) and ordered a Vgate code scanner.
Meanwhile the car would drive fine ( back and fourth, around the block).
Oh and the low key fob battery light came on. Replaced the battery (2nd time in 6 months).
When the scanner came in I took it for a ride.
Drove just fine for about 5 miles then again no throttle response, but at this same time no CE light or limp mode was on.
Turn it OFF/ON - the car gets rolling and immediately I get no response from the throttle and still no codes.
Does it in both stealth and sport mode.

Any suggestions/help is appreciated.
Also, located in North Miami, so please let me know if anyone can look at it locally. 786.494.0491

One thing I did recently - I lightly washed the engine bay area, which was not the smartest thing to do.
The battery pack was replaced 4 years ago.
Alex.

 

[GoNC2]

Sorry for the late reply, I just now saw this in the monthly email.

I had a similar experience last year:

Reduced Performance error, no acceleration

I started to drive my car today, and about 11 miles from home I had a sudden warning: Reduced Performance Contact Service Center This was accompanied by a CEL and a exclamation in a triangle, and the car would not accelerate. I was able to coast to a nearby parking lot. Step 1, I turned it...

www.fiskerbuzz.com

Water in the VCM was my problem, and I suspect it's your problem, too.

I parked it in the garage, hood up, for about a month so that it could dry out. After that, I haven't had any more problems.

But I also don't drive it in the rain, and haven't washed it since last year. The "fix" is to create a type of dam with silicone to prevent water from infiltrating the VCM again, but I haven't quite figured out how to do it myself and I'm 12 hours from FiskerPhilly.

 

[speedyal]

Sorry for the late reply, I just now saw this in the monthly email.

I had a similar experience last year:

Reduced Performance error, no acceleration

I started to drive my car today, and about 11 miles from home I had a sudden warning: Reduced Performance Contact Service Center This was accompanied by a CEL and a exclamation in a triangle, and the car would not accelerate. I was able to coast to a nearby parking lot. Step 1, I turned it...

www.fiskerbuzz.com

Water in the VCM was my problem, and I suspect it's your problem, too.

I parked it in the garage, hood up, for about a month so that it could dry out. After that, I haven't had any more problems.

But I also don't drive it in the rain, and haven't washed it since last year. The "fix" is to create a type of dam with silicone to prevent water from infiltrating the VCM again, but I haven't quite figured out how to do it myself and I'm 12 hours from FiskerPhilly.

Thank you! I will look into that, try to dry it out and post the results. The only thing that confuses me is that there are no check engine or any other kind of lights now.

 

[GoNC2]

That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.

 

[speedyal]

That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.

That does sound odd, but considering that I was dealing with basically water shorting out a circuit board I guess that you can't really expect any type of consistency. You could have had water shorting in just the right way to not throw an error, but still crash the VCM.

The fact that you had just hosed off the engine is too much of a coincidence to ignore, though.

That is true

 

[FiskerPhilly]

Inverters are overheating probably. Check the coolant in the RS fender reservoir. Should see coolant in it. 1-2" from top. GM dexcool.
If it's low, most likely sources of Low temp coolant leaks are cracked traction motor or gen case welds or porosity. Or a damaged low temp cooler in the bumper.

 

[speedyal]

Inverters are overheating probably. Check the coolant in the RS fender reservoir. Should see coolant in it. 1-2" from top. GM dexcool.
If it's low, most likely sources of Low temp coolant leaks are cracked traction motor or gen case welds or porosity. Or a damaged low temp cooler in the bumper.

Thank you.
You know, that is a good suggestion. I actually did remove the front bumper in order to pull the headlights out ( to get it re-coated with clear ) and after that the issues started to happen.
Can you explain please where exactly the low temp cooler located? Isn't that the one by the wheel on the passenger side? I noticed it was kinda hard to align the frame back in place and some wiring was in the way it when I was putting it back together. Is there a way to test it to make sure it operates as it should?

It finally cleared after heavy raining and wind here in south Florida. I'm going to take a closer look at the VCM as GoNC2 suggested as well as check the coolant/inverter cooling.

I appreciate your responses guys. Will post the results in a few days.

 

[speedyal]

Hey Fisker fellas. Here is an update.
I let the car sit under the sunlight with the hood up for a few days, then cleaned/reattached all the electrical connectors I was able to reach.
Then as advised by @FiskerPhilly , I've checked both reservoirs and found them both completely dry..added over a half a gallon of coolant to bring it up to the level and took it for a drive.
Well, so far - no more problems.. Drove it for almost 10 miles in sport mode then checked the reservoirs again.
The one on a passenger side was a little warm, the one on the driver's side was pretty much cold, so was the main reservoir in the middle.
So apparently the low level coolant was my issue. Thank you so much guys for you response. It is much appreciated!

 

[speedyal]

Hey guys. Quick question. What's the expected operating temperature range of the coolant on the inverter cooling side circuit? (right/passenger side reservoir)
Thanks in advance.

 

[Fixsker]

Hey guys. Quick question. What's the expected operating temperature range of the coolant on the inverter cooling side circuit? (right/passenger side reservoir)
Thanks in advance.

It depends on what you are doing. But I don’t recall it getting really hot. Just make sure you keep it full.

 

[Fixsker]

Hey guys. Quick question. What's the expected operating temperature range of the coolant on the inverter cooling side circuit? (right/passenger side reservoir)
Thanks in advance.

I was reading some Fisker Tech literature tonight and ran across this, which directly answers your question... "The inverters for the electronics system are water cooled to prevent the temps for rising above 80°C or 150°F. If the temps do exceed normal ranges the system can be expected to limit power and self-protect." Hope this helps!