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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I made a short trip this afternoon and had a new failure I haven't seen discussed here. The instrument cluster (which normally has the speedometer, battery-and-gasoline miles remaining, and generate/accelerate meter, plus the display above it with headlights, any open doors, etc) was completely blank. The car drove fine, I just could not tell how fast I was going.

I power cycled the computer system and it made no difference, but I discovered that in the dark (garage), when the headlights come on, the cluster lights up. I backed out into the light and played with the manual controls for the headlights. If you turn on parking lights or headlights, the display comes on. Back in the garage (where it's dark enough to turn on headlights automatically), if you turn off the headlights, the gauges go blank again.

When the gauges are up, the display area where check-engine, open door icons, etc., shows up has the funny icon that in the manual translates to "press brake pedal". Pressing the brake pedal achieves nothing, regardless of whether the car is "on" (Stealth) or in accessory mode.

Has anyone seen this before? What is the problem? (My first suspicion is a wiring issue somewhere, but where?)
 

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Cluster needs to be replaced, just drive with your headlights on in the mean time.

Edit - Read your post too fast and skipped over the brake pedal icon part.

When the headlights are on/gauges are on, are the gauges functioning?? I.e speedometer reads correctly
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Cluster needs to be replaced, just drive with your headlights on in the mean time.

Edit - Read your post too fast and skipped over the brake pedal icon part.

When the headlights are on/gauges are on, are the gauges functioning?? I.e speedometer reads correctly
No, the speedometer is always missing.

I think the gas and battery gauges are working (hard to be sure, it was a very short trip today).

The chimes don't chime either, when the gauges are completely blank (at least, not the one at startup: didn't try turning on hill / cruise-control / etc). However, the proximity alarm sensor beep works then.
 

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Is what you see different from when you first get in the car and typically see the foot/brake pedal icon (when it is working normally).

It almost sounds as if its not recieving the correct power mode message. I'm still betting it is the cluster based on previous replacements but I would still rule out the wiring before replacement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I don't normally watch the instrument cluster during "bootup" so I'm not really sure.

I did see that when the headlights are on so that the instruments are lit, the D/N/R/P indicator (middle of the speedometer circle area) works.
 

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Next time you drive take note of whether the speedometer on the left (analog) and the accelerate/regen meter is actively changing while you drive...or even better take a picture if possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
http://web.torek.net/torek/car/cfault-d.jpg

I fired up the car just to make sure it was still acting up (and called the dealer and scheduled a visit for Monday). Here's two photos of the cluster, with the car in stealth (not moving), in Park and Drive respectively:
 

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yep this is the 'boot up' screen you get if you do not start the car. The DIS is not receiving the correct power mode signal. Could be a cluster or CAN issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
They:
6343 CHECKED OPERATION OF CLUSTER VERIFIED AND COMPLAINT. CHECKED
FOR CODES AND SOFTWARE LEVELS. PERFORMED HARD RESET AND THE VEHICLE
STARTED WORKING NORMALLY
So, if it does it again, try the hard reset. :)
 

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Read this post last week, and sure enough had same problem Sat. nite. Instrument cluster went black but car operated normally. Drove for 20 miles, went to dinner, and same problem when I restarted car. Halfway home, instrument cluster lit up as if nothing happened. Another case of Fiskeritis.
 

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When in doubt hard reset before shelling out for costly expenses and replacing parts. If the problem comes back then you may have a deeper issue that requires parts and specialized labor.
 

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Right, so instead of actually fixing the problem you'd rather chance it to happen again randomly? Maybe when a loved one is driving right? The dealer in this case clearly didn't want to mess with the car and took a huge short cut, especially with them knowing the Headlamp and Dash harness have had big issues with damaged wiring in the past, not too mention the loose grounds all over the car.

The fisker scan tool software isn't mine to release, nor can I simply put it on flash drive. It doesn't work like that which is beside the fact you can royally screw up your car if you don't know how to use it. I'm sorry you paid 7 grand for scan tool with no software but I don't owe you anything.
 

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Right, so instead of actually fixing the problem you'd rather chance it to happen again randomly? Maybe when a loved one is driving right? The dealer in this case clearly didn't want to mess with the car and took a huge short cut, especially with them knowing the Headlamp and Dash harness have had big issues with damaged wiring in the past, not too mention the loose grounds all over the car.

The fisker scan tool software isn't mine to release, nor can I simply put it on flash drive. It doesn't work like that which is beside the fact you can royally screw up your car if you don't know how to use it. I'm sorry you paid 7 grand for scan tool with no software but I don't owe you anything.

We all know that the Karma does weird and random things that may or may not be related to an underlying problem. Obviously the correct solution is to get rid of the car if you are afraid about the vehicle malfunctioning when a loved one is driving it. I think the OP has a late model Karma (his color is Laguna if I remember correctly) so major harness issues should have been fixed.

re messing up your car- This is true of any car. For many of us this is not our first time at the rodeo and we have dealt with way more complex systems than what is on the Karma. The Karma is not so much complex as it is disorganized and fragmented. This coupled with the poor implementation of certain vehicle communication protocols. You don't owe me anything that is true but that won't keep me from asking. Anyway, I am having decent success with Canalyzer for many of the Karma's systems so I will just continue using that for now. Some of the latency that I am seeing across the gateways is quite surprising.
 

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I think the OP has a late model Karma (his color is Laguna if I remember correctly) so major harness issues should have been fixed.
I've said it a million times on this forum; high VIN cars are just as much of a complete mess as are the low VIN cars, especially when it comes to wire harnesses. After all of your many experiences with Karma, tell me, do you really think Fisker "got it right" with the laguna cars?

FWIW the latest version of wiring harnesses installed on MY12 Karma was SOP6 and I'm pretty certain Lear never MFGd a complete SOP6 harness.

This means every obsolete harness was reworked by hand...See where I'm going with this?

re messing up your car- This is true of any car. For many of us this is not our first time at the rodeo and we have dealt with way more complex systems than what is on the Karma. The Karma is not so much complex as it is disorganized and fragmented. This coupled with the poor implementation of certain vehicle communication protocols. You don't owe me anything that is true but that won't keep me from asking. Anyway, I am having decent success with Canalyzer for many of the Karma's systems so I will just continue using that for now. Some of the latency that I am seeing across the gateways is quite surprising.
Disorganized and fragmented is much worse than a complex system. A complex system can be understood. It doesn't matter how many rodeos you've been too, the development of this car is unlike any other.
 
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