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A few days ago my Fisker stopped accepting a charge. I tried a public charger, my home charger, and my travel charger to no avail. I hear all of the normal clicks upon plugging in, and charging begins. After just a couple of minutes the car stops charging and turns on the check engine light. The fault code is U019B (U019B: Lost Communication with Battery Charger Control Module). My Fisker has been my daily driver for quite some time now and I've accumulated quite a few miles. I think I'm at 73k. How much money am I looking at to restore charging functionality? Any idea what the car is worth with this many miles on it? Any input is welcome and appreciated


Thanks in advance!
 

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Hi Sterling,

There is a bulletin for false setting of U19B for loss of comm with OBCM but that had to do with the old 615 software in the BECM and needed to be updated to 520 or newer software to correct the concern. It could just need the BECM re-flashed or it could need a new OBCM, kinda hard to tell whats going on. Good job and testing with other chargers.

I cant honestly answer your other questions without doing a full diagnoses on your car. I would not even attempt to guess at whats wrong, it could be simple or complex. I have fixed them with programming or having to replace the OBCM. Sometimes its the canon connector on the OBCM.

Good luck!
 

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A few days ago my Fisker stopped accepting a charge. I tried a public charger, my home charger, and my travel charger to no avail. I hear all of the normal clicks upon plugging in, and charging begins. After just a couple of minutes the car stops charging and turns on the check engine light. The fault code is U019B (U019B: Lost Communication with Battery Charger Control Module). My Fisker has been my daily driver for quite some time now and I've accumulated quite a few miles. I think I'm at 73k. How much money am I looking at to restore charging functionality? Any idea what the car is worth with this many miles on it? Any input is welcome and appreciated


Thanks in advance!
If the check engine light is on and when you plug the car in your hear the relays clunk listen for the same clunk a few seconds later if you hear it clunk again its the number 5 contact in the HV battery.
When the car is cold and at zero miles does it charge at all. If the OBCM is overheating it will stop the car from charging. Over the years we"ve seen more problems with the HV battery then the OBCM. Not to say the fault can be related to the OBCM
 

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Morning Sterling,

I'm also having battery issues. One of my 15 cells is no longer taking a full charge and the Engine light is now on continuously. I had my local Karma Dealer do a diagnostic to confirm the problem. The cost to replace the one cell is $3,600. He said I should wait until other cells start failing as most of the cost is the labor charge. I only have 20K miles on my Fisker. I've read people have been replacing the entire car battery in the range of $13K to $19K. A big spread, not to mention ridiculously expensive. I live in Florida and my Dealer/Shop is in West Palm Beach. With the amount of miles on your car, I'm guessing the battery is shot. You'll have to have a diagnostic done on the car to see the root of the problem unfortunately.
 

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Not charging

I had the same problem as it would click off and stop charging after a few seconds. Diagnostics said that the contractors in the EDM would not stay closed and allow car to charge. Removed HV battery pack to test the EDM and found the charge negative contractor to have failed and would not close. Replaced full EDM which included the full contractor system. Parts $1,695 and labor $2,520.
 

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Morning Sterling,

He said I should wait until other cells start failing as most of the cost is the labor charge. .

Others will know better than me, but I thought I read that if 3 or more cells are bad at once that it will be very difficult to get the battery to balance replaced. This could lead to needing a full battery replacement.


Can anyone verify or disprove this?


Thanks!
Ed
 

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Morning Sterling,

I'm also having battery issues. One of my 15 cells is no longer taking a full charge and the Engine light is now on continuously. I had my local Karma Dealer do a diagnostic to confirm the problem. The cost to replace the one cell is $3,600. He said I should wait until other cells start failing as most of the cost is the labor charge. I only have 20K miles on my Fisker. I've read people have been replacing the entire car battery in the range of $13K to $19K. A big spread, not to mention ridiculously expensive. I live in Florida and my Dealer/Shop is in West Palm Beach. With the amount of miles on your car, I'm guessing the battery is shot. You'll have to have a diagnostic done on the car to see the root of the problem unfortunately.
The modules also cost a good amount of money . As far as waiting to see if any other modules fail it’s a double edge sword . There is no way to tell when and if another module will fail time will tell the course of action will be needed
 

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I had the same problem as it would click off and stop charging after a few seconds. Diagnostics said that the contractors in the EDM would not stay closed and allow car to charge. Removed HV battery pack to test the EDM and found the charge negative contractor to have failed and would not close. Replaced full EDM which included the full contractor system. Parts $1,695 and labor $2,520.
Which dealer charged that amount of money ?
 

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OK so the CIU reflash my car still needs is not the only issue I got

Now the car wont charge from a charger and after reviewing all related posts the most likely issue seems to be the contactor(s)...

Symptoms in short:
- charging while driving and regen works fine
- the initial pattern of relay clicks seems a tiny bit off
- NO additional clicks within five minutes (as described by some)
- NO error messages except for old ones (U0293 and U019B)

Any suggestion as to where to look / what the issue might be?
 

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OK so the CIU reflash my car still needs is not the only issue I got

Now the car wont charge from a charger and after reviewing all related posts the most likely issue seems to be the contactor(s)...

Symptoms in short:
- charging while driving and regen works fine
- the initial pattern of relay clicks seems a tiny bit off
- NO additional clicks within five minutes (as described by some)
- NO error messages except for old ones (U0293 and U019B)

Any suggestion as to where to look / what the issue might be?
If your check engine light is on more than likely a number 5 contact. When you plug the car in you hear the contacts close continue to listen if you hear the contacts again it's the number 5.
 

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Thanks, Harleyguy,

I did listen again closely and there is another click about a second or two right after the initial clicking sequence.

I forgot to mention the CEL indicator is not *NOT* on and there are and were no new error codes.

May I ask you how difficult it is to replace this contactor (which I understand to be a TYCO KILOVAC EV200 A1ANA)?

- any special tools / procedures / sequence or unscrewing the battery structure from below?
- how to proceed with the connectors/cables?
- any way to disconnect power from the contactors
- any advice on RE general safety considerations

Any assistance is much appreaciated!
 

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The HV battery needs to come out and taken apart . The hv battery drops out from the bottom of the car . You need a lift table that can drop the battery out .
And yes taking the HV battery cover off is dangerous until you break down the pack to make it safe to work on .
It depends how big a balls you have decides on if you can tackle the repair. It doesn’t take a lot of tools to be honest .
Couple torq sockets two clamps to clamp off the cooling lines . Soilder iron heat shrink tubing . A friend to pour you some drinks �� and be able to dial 911 if you touch the wrong thing before the pack is safe to work on .
 

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Thanks, Harleyguy, much appreciated!

I am pretty comfortable doing this particular kind of repair. Replacing battery modules would be a different story with the balancing and all.

But I am concerned about the following
A) Detaching/reattaching the wires in the right sequence
B) Detaching/clamping off/reattaching the cooling lines, e.g. is there a need to add coolant somewhere?
C) Doing the right steps to "break down the pack" before getting to work on that contactor/relay

Might there be a way for you to shed more light on this? Also, if I am successful, I will ask your advice regarding a CIU reflash, which I believe you helped Christoph with recently in Zurich and Milan (presumably via Puma).

Also - Is there a way to tell if the OBCM could be to blame?
 

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The HV battery needs to come out and taken apart . The hv battery drops out from the bottom of the car . You need a lift table that can drop the battery out .
And yes taking the HV battery cover off is dangerous until you break down the pack to make it safe to work on .
It depends how big a balls you have decides on if you can tackle the repair. It doesn’t take a lot of tools to be honest .
Couple torq sockets two clamps to clamp off the cooling lines . Soilder iron heat shrink tubing . A friend to pour you some drinks �� and be able to dial 911 if you touch the wrong thing before the pack is safe to work on .
Sounds like you need one of these no matter what you are doing. :D
 

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Yes - Preferably after than before the operation, although tempted :)

Will enlist the help of people with general HV experience and limit myself to helping with the battery drop and serving the drinks.

But still need an idea of the procedure.
 
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