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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I just bought a Karma today with only 2400 miles on it from a dealer. Was perfect when I test drove. Was checked out by a mechanic. 2nd drive, the check engine light came on but nothing seemed not to be working. 3rd drive, the Stealth miles went from 30 to 0 in one blip. Any ideas? The status screen shows no problems with the engine or the electric drive.
 

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Sounds like a bad cell - I would have Joe (FiskerPhilly) or Adam ( HarleyGuy) assist you - I would trust those two implicitly. They are both experienced at fixing bad cells, communicate effectively and are as trustworthy as it gets.

Oh - Just tell your wife the car is great and that you love her! All will be fine
 

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I just bought a Karma today with only 2400 miles on it from a dealer. Was perfect when I test drove. Was checked out by a mechanic. 2nd drive, the check engine light came on but nothing seemed not to be working. 3rd drive, the Stealth miles went from 30 to 0 in one blip. Any ideas? The status screen shows no problems with the engine or the electric drive.
Thanks Doug @DHH, and an accurate diagnosis most likely. Where are you located @JCMorrill?
 

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@FiskerPhilly - as it ends up, JCMorrill lives near me. He drove the car over tonight and we were able to confirm his 120V Fisker charger is bad. I plugged it into a socket I've used with my 120V charger and the 1st light on top turned red. So I loaned him my 120V charger and he's going to test it out tonight at his house.

When the car was idling in Stealth, I had him change it to Sport and the ICE didn't turn on. We went for a drive and in Sport mode the ICE did kick in while driving as well as turn off occasionally with the auto-stop feature. I'm definitely not a Fisker mechanic, but the ICE sounded normal to me.

The CEL is on and stayed on between several starts and stops of the push button to start the car. I plugged in my OBDLink Bluetooth scan tool to see what codes are showing. I understand these are not as comprehensive as the Prodis scan tool but thought it might help you.

If I was reading the stored codes correctly, they were:

P1B48
P1B99
P0A7B

The pending codes were the same.

JCMorrill said he would report back to us in the morning to see if the car was able to charge tonight using a different charger.

He's also reached out to @Lormax and another local mechanic who used to work on Fiskers at the Penske dealership here when they were a Fisker dealer.
 

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I just bought a Karma today with only 2400 miles on it from a dealer. Was perfect when I test drove. Was checked out by a mechanic. 2nd drive, the check engine light came on but nothing seemed not to be working. 3rd drive, the Stealth miles went from 30 to 0 in one blip. Any ideas? The status screen shows no problems with the engine or the electric drive.
Seems to be the theme of the week JCMorrill. I went from 13 to 0 on the Stealth miles within a second or two, the day after I purchased the car. There was also a weird noise every time I put my foot on the accelerator when I switched from Stealth to Sport after the battery miles depleted. Car drove great when I test drove it. I had them send me the car's service records yesterday. Nothing about the battery, however, some of the small things that I've noticed such as the tire pressure light, Bluetooth feedback when on the phone, back door inside panel not staying latched correctly, are all in the service records as issues that were reported back when the car had only 411 miles on it. I am wondering why they are still happening after 5,000 miles.

Since I had to pay cash and the loan I have is through the bank, the 3-day return rule is not an option for me. However, I do have a 30-day return clause if they were untruthful regarding the condition of the car. These are small issues for me, but dependent on the condition of the modules in the battery, they are still non-disclosed issues that were never fixed nor disclosed. Did you buy through a dealer that you would be able to check service records on yours?

All that being said, I absolutely love the car. I knew when I bought it that the battery and TMs may be an issue. I had just hoped that it wouldn't happen for another 20,000 miles or so.
 

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I'd say for both of you to deep charge the hv battery to balance the modules. That said its difficult to do with a 120v charger. A 240 works much better at this. Plug it in to a 240 charger for 16 hours or more if possible. The modules will perform balancing strategy after what appears to be full however all modules are not fully charged equally, the battery will slowly (key word here slowly) raise the non peaked modules to match the others. On a 120v charger this can take days or never. When leds stop cycling, it is balanced. Then see how the range does, if it still drops, you have a faulted module or two. Fisker Scan tool will quickly verify.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everybody for responding so quickly. I have ordered my 240 charger. Also, Corey Hom (my Scottsdale dealer's) tech who now has his own business has agreed to try to meet me here today. It's been on WATTGAS' borrowed charger all night. I was waiting until Corey calls me to take it off. The car had just been checked out by Corey as recently as Monday. :-s Oh, and we put a little more air in the front tires last night, and that light clicked off as I drove home. So, going from 36 to 40 psi in the front seemed to do the trick.
 

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I'd say for both of you to deep charge the hv battery to balance the modules. That said its difficult to do with a 120v charger. A 240 works much better at this. Plug it in to a 240 charger for 16 hours or more if possible. The modules will perform balancing strategy after what appears to be full however all modules are not fully charged equally, the battery will slowly (key word here slowly) raise the non peaked modules to match the others. On a 120v charger this can take days or never. When leds stop cycling, it is balanced. Then see how the range does, if it still drops, you have a faulted module or two. Fisker Scan tool will quickly verify.
Interesting. My battery has been just fine for more than two years, with the car charging from 240V "whenever plugged in" which was whenever it was in my garage. Now that I live in California, though I have the charger (the Fisker-branded Blink one) set to charge only from 11 PM to 7 AM by default, i.e., only 8 hours at a time. (I have observed that in this mode, there's some sort of handshaking between the car and the charger such that it actually starts after 11 PM but before midnight. Also, due to the software in the Blink, it disconnects briefly during the 11:59-PM-to-12:00-AM switchover. But it does work correctly otherwise: I can plug the car in "whenever", and the charge, which takes at most a bit over 5 hours, starts after 11 PM and finishes well before the cost of electric energy triples at 7 AM.)

Would you suggest a periodic override to let the car be "on charge" for longer, just as a health-maintenance procedure to rebalance modules? And if so, what would be a good interval for this: weekly, monthly, ...?

[For those not familiar with how crazy California electricity prices can be, in PG&E territory, once you're on the EV-A billing system, electricity is about $.11/kWh at night, and rises to $.18, $.30, or even higher. As it's winter now the peak daytime rate is "only" triple the night-time rate. I won't know for sure what the summer peak rate really is until summer. I think it's currently $.425/kWh, but if you look at this page, you'll see how obvious it isn't.

In any case, I'm putting a decent size solar PV system on the roof, which really pays off once you're on the EV-A rate schedule: you earn credit at the high rates during the day selling any excess energy, and pay at the low rates at night taking energy back.]

Chris
 

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Ahh yes I'm not used to the peak/off peak and charge timing issue. Yes. Id say avoid interruption if possible because it will interrupt the balance cycle (it does also cause fault codes to post in the battery module, however not codes that will cause a check engine light) when the on board charging module sees a charger connected to the socket but no votage coming in, it posts a fault for charger pilot signal (Again its not gonna turn on any light or affect anything) but as far as balancing modules it should be one long continuous charge say 16-20 hours on a 240 charger. Weekly would be good but just good to do whenever it is convenient.
Good luck
 

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A easy way to tell if the HV battery isn't balanced out or has a possable module fault when the battery reaches 50 miles and around 20 minutes after that point the charge light doesn't turn off . The Fisker 110 charger will continue to scroll and the 220 charger charge light doesn't turn off . Also take a listen if you hear the high voltage contacts make noise when you unplug the car it's the same sound you hear when you plug the car in .
 

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I test drove your car a couple a weeks ago at Ferrari of Scottsdale. During my test drive the check engine light was on, and the tire air pressure indicator light. I actually went back to Penske the following day, to show my wife the car and it was at Cory's shop. I went to Cory's shop to inquire about the car, and he indicated that the BECM needed to be updated. Cory also indicated that a Fisker tech was flying in to fix this issue as he did not have the appropriate equipment to perform this update. Not sure if this helps but wanted to pass it along. Your car is a very nice late Vin model with all of the updated equipment. I hope you discover that this is only a minor problem.

Good Luck,
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Ok. I'm going to tactfully ignore the last half dozen posts, and respond back to IDAHO1 & HarelyGuy.

I have been talking to Corey. He had it and got the techs in and did the updates. He believes that a cell balance is needed which is what the Fisker techs told him. Also, I got the tire light to go out myself when we took the front tires from 36 to 40 PSI.

Harleyguy, are you saying the that relays shouldn't make noise when you disconnect the charger? (Or are you saying that with a properly functioning battery, they'd have already disconnected earlier and one wouldn't hear it when unplugging the car?)
 

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In my experience, modules rarely fall out of balance enough to cause range drop off and CEL. Balancing is more of a maintenance process than a repair. It is usually only"required" when a new module is installed to match it to the others. In your case, if it does require balancing, then the question is "how did it become unbalanced". A module replacement is likely inevitable in this case, but you may get away without it for awhile.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Well. I had it on my 240V charger for around 44 hours. Just drove it around 20. The check engine light hasn't come on, yet (which is basically a first since I bought it a week ago). Will have to drive it another 10 or so to see if it plummets to 0 like it had been, or if I can see a number under 20 in Stealth range. Fingers (& toes) crossed! :)
 

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Well. I had it on my 240V charger for around 44 hours. Just drove it around 20. The check engine light hasn't come on, yet (which is basically a first since I bought it a week ago). Will have to drive it another 10 or so to see if it plummets to 0 like it had been, or if I can see a number under 20 in Stealth range. Fingers (& toes) crossed! :)
great news so far!!!
 
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