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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I have two questions regarding the fisker's wheel size.

- I have done a research on this forum and I saw that the fisker's wheel bolt patterns are 5x120 is that true? Because on the Asanti's website it says 5x130? Which one is it?

- Does anyone know if the car can be fitted with a 18" 19" 20" wheel? That is only matter of question if the brakes aren't too big for them? I know the original winter rims are 21" but I can't get them here so I would go for a after market.

I am asking all this because my car will be shipped into the port of Hamburg Germany and I have to drive it back to all the way to Hungary, and I am required to have winter tires (if I wouldn't be I'd still don't want to drive the car a 1,000 miles all the way across the Alps)

Thanks. :angel:
 

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I am pretty sure you can still get a set of winterwheels at Krooymans, the Fisker dealer in the Netherlands, only a few hours drive from Hamburg, but they should also be able to ship them.

Not really cheap though, but they do make a difference in the rain/snow
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for the info, and don't get me wrong, I don't try to be cheap but a new set of wheels with the winter tire probably cost around 4-5,000 Euros and I don't want to spend that much, that is why I am looking for a after market wheel which will fit the car and I can drive it back home safely with a winter tire on it.
 

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Last winter I had the same problem - could not get official winter tires or rims. So I worked with my tire supplier and we found 20 inch rims ETA Beta Jofiel, looking similar to summer rims:

front: 9x20
rear: 10x20

On these rims then fit Pirelli Ice snow tires:*front 245/45R20 and rear 265/45R20, which are fairly standard fare for many tire places.

Huge warning: 20 inch rims are too small to fit on the uprights (internal diameter) without modifications. They interfere with steering tie rods, where the rod is attached to the front wheel - bolt is too long. So those bolts need to be cut (endings) so the wheel fits and bolt does not scratch the inside of the wheel.

Also, rear stabilizer arms need to be flipped (I believe they have to be dismounted and mounted in the ooposite way - because since they are curved at the ending, they again interfere with the inside of wheel arch). They fit the other way around as well, which is good news. No handling issues afterwards. However I drove one day without rear roll bar and car was very unstable, so do not think about disconnecting the rear roll bar as a shortcut.

Under the rims spacers need to be installed so tire moves out of the wheel arch. Not sure about the thickness of the spacers, but again, whoever is doing the modification should see that rather quickly.

However once these modifications are done (not for faint-of-heart types), you are set for many winters. Still, when I turn my wheels fully to left, there is a slight noise from tyre hitting the internals of wheel arch, but this happens only when pulling out of parking space at low speeds and at full lock.

Not ideal, but perhaps useful suggestion how to overcome winter tire problem. Of course TPMS sensors need to be swapped over to winter tires.

I was not able to find any alternative tires that would fit on 21 inch rims other than what Fisker has prescribed. Not only they are expensive, they are also difficult to find.
 

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Please DO NOT modify the suspension to fit wheels smaller than factory specification (21" / 22"). Specs below.

If 21" winter wheels & tires are not available the next best option is Yokohama Parada Spec-X on stock 22" wheels. These tires are available on 255/285 widths through Tire Rack. European/Canadian owners may need to check with a reputable tire distributor for alternate solutions to meet legal requirements.

Front 21" Wheel
21 x 8.5” Cast aluminum A356-T6 heat treated
ET 42.55mm (offset)
Center bore 66.95mm
Mounting pad diameter 165.4mm (do not exceed, undercut as required)
5 x 130mm bolt circle, 14mm x 1.5 studs
Nuts: 22mm socket, 60 deg cone angle, 205 Nm (150 lb-ft)
Corner weight 1550 lbs, full SAE durability standard
6 mm rim/barrel thickness

Rear 21" Wheel
21 x 9.0” Cast aluminum A356-T6 heat treated
ET 40.65mm (offset)
Mounting pad diameter 165.4mm (do not exceed, undercut as required)
Center bore 66.95mm
5 x 130mm bolt circle, 14mm x 1.5 studs
Nuts: 22mm socket, 60 deg cone angle, 205 Nm (150 lb-ft)
Corner weight 1900 lbs, full SAE durability standard
6 mm rim/barrel thickness

Front 22" Wheel

22 x 8.5” Cast aluminum A356-T6 heat treated
ET 42.55mm (offset)
Center bore 66.95mm
Mounting pad diameter 165.4mm (do not exceed, undercut as required)
5 x 130mm bolt circle, 14mm x 1.5 studs
Nuts: 22mm socket, 60 deg cone angle, 205 Nm (150 lb-ft)
Corner weight 1550 lbs, full SAE durability standard
6 mm rim/barrel thickness

Rear 22" Wheel
22 x 9.5” Cast aluminum A356-T6 heat treated
ET 40.65mm (offset)
Mounting pad diameter 165.4mm (do not exceed, undercut as required)
Center bore 66.95mm
5 x 130mm bolt circle, 14mm x 1.5 studs
Nuts: 22mm socket, 60 deg cone angle, 205 Nm (150 lb-ft)
Corner weight 1900 lbs, full SAE durability standard
6 mm rim/barrel thickness
 

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Note Wheel Clicking TSB spec update:


Torque with or without Magni-coated lug nuts = 220 Nm


(Fab, to avoid confusion can you update my prior post?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thank you very much for both of you. I am looking at a 22" winter tyres now as there is no easier or better way. Thanks again.
 

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Please DO NOT modify the suspension to fit wheels smaller than factory specification (21" / 22"). Specs below.

Well it works for me fine, second winter and no problems. But I agree you need someone who knows what they are doing. Looks like I might lose my warranty if Fisker finds out what I did...:confused:
 

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Please DO NOT modify the suspension to fit wheels smaller than factory specification (21" / 22"). Specs below.

Well it works for me fine, second winter and no problems. But I agree you need someone who knows what they are doing. Looks like I might lose my warranty if Fisker finds out what I did...:confused:
You're replying to the director of chassis engineering... too late!
 

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Then I must congratulate FAChassis on job well done. It is amazing how well Karma negotiates bumps in the road and its performance in tight corners is also well sorted out. I would venture to say that Karma's suspension is better than on my three year old Cayenne Turbo - similar weight.

Too bad I cannot say the same about person responsible for electronics of the car, especially when having to look at many repeatedly annoying alarms. Control module designer was probably stoned already.
 

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Continued dedication and support from Karma owners and fans is a sight to behold. Truly a class act.
Antonin - thanks. I'm hopeful for eventual future improvements. And regarding mods we just want safe driving so I'm compelled to respond 'officially'.
 

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Semi-related question is it normal for the 21" W-Drive (stock 245/40's) to rub the inner felt fender liners when full-lock turning? I don't think this was an issue on the 22's. Just curious
 

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They shouldn't be. The wheel liner could be sagging or perhaps one of the push pins is out. The outside diameter of the 21's are smaller than 22's, so S-chain (cable) compatible on the rear.
 

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I may be the only owner to "ding" my wheels on curbs but now I want to clean them up as I am learning to drive properly after 12,000km! Below is a repair system I am considering. Want to do this myself. Any suggestions? Txs

So if you are interested...here's what you need:
Wurth Silver Wheel Lacquer or 1Z Silver Spray Wheel Paint
Wurth High Gloss Clear Lacquer
Primer 1Z Wheel Primer
Bondo Spot Putty
240 and 400 wet & dry sand paper
Paint thinner
Masking tape & masking paper
 

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The Harleyguy. Any experience on repairs to the wheels?
The dealers usually have a company that fixes curb rash. My dealer has done it for me a couple of times when I had the car in for other service.
 
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