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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I changed my oil in the Fisker last week and wanted to post the "How to" for you DIYers out there. Maybe you never have and thought about, maybe you have and know all this, but I could find nothing on it. It wasn't hard, though I did tackle the air filter as well and that was not fun at all!

Step 1:
Buy everything you need: 5W-30 Synthetic Oil & Filter (I bought from AutoZone they had a deal on Peen Ultra Platinum). A 15mm socket to drain the oil (pretty sure that was theize) & a nice big 32mm socket to get the oil filter out (I bought one years ago for my Saab 9-3, GM parts!) Remember this engine is the same has the Pontiac Solstice and Saturn Sky. You'll also need a T45 or something to unscrew the mount bar in the engine.

Step 2:
Drain the Oil, you should know how to do this part. The Oil bolt is located behind the front passenger tire, you'll see it as it is plugged in the oil pan. Unscrew it with the 15mm socket and drain the oil into something. Now you wait! So I like to open the Oil cap and pull the plastic cover off.

Step 3:
To pull the Plastic cover off you have to unscrew the Oil cap and then get your T45 torque out and unscrew the mounts off:



Step 4:
Find the Oil filter. It's under the Plastic cover that I had you remove. It's in the back by the firewall and where the Oil cap was...look down. It's a tight fit!


Step 5:
Unscrew the Oil cap with this tool:



Step 6:
Now the Oil Filter is out

Plug back in the oil drain screw under the car if you already haven't. Replace the Oil Filter and ring! It's an open oil filter that comes with a ring. Finagle it back in (it's tight). Then screw it back on with the 32mm socket.

Step 7:
Put the plastic cover on and tighten the black bar in with the T45 screws.



Step 8:
Last step add 5 quarts of Oil. Check the level and top of as needed.
 

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I'm not keen to work under a 6000lb car personally, but I love and appreciate any and all DIY posts, especially with all the pictures - thanks!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I'm not keen to work under a 6000lb car personally, but I love and appreciate any and all DIY posts, especially with all the pictures - thanks!!
I had ramps that support 12,000 lbs, but it was a thought in my head. You don't have to be under the car long and if you have a good reach you are fine. No worries at all. I just wanted to post something "How to" as I love the Karma.
 

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I've also changed my Karma's oil a few times. I purchased a special socket to remove the filter cap. See: "Lisle 14700 1-1/4"/32mm Oil Filter Socket for GM Ecotec"

I used the following filter: "Purolator PSL15436 Synthetic Cartridge Oil Filter"

Amazon carries both items.

For me, the best Oil price was Mobil 1 5-30 full synthetic Motor Oil, in a 5 quart container from Walmart.

While I was about it, I Helicoiled the threaded stiffener bar holes, as the aluminum is soft and subject to stripping. For this I used the following: "Helicoil 5546-10 M10 x 1.5 Metric Coarse Thread Repair Kit" which is also available from Amazon. I didn't strip the mounting holes but I felt more comfortable knowing that I wouldn't have to worry about them stripping after installing the Helicoils.:)
 

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This is great stuff. Thank you. I'm not excited to get under this car either but I should have a long enough reach. This is one of my weekend projects and I will report back regarding the success (or I'll crush my skull and there will be another Karma for sale).
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
This is great stuff. Thank you. I'm not excited to get under this car either but I should have a long enough reach. This is one of my weekend projects and I will report back regarding the success (or I'll crush my skull and there will be another Karma for sale).
I think people need to stop worrying about the car weight. If you buy the right tools and stands you are fine. They do make stands and ramps for 3+ tons. :)
 

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You can use a Topsider that extracts the oil from the dipstick tube. A lot easier than having to crawl underneath the car. YMMV
 

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Maybe I was misguided, but I thick the screw to drain the oil is somehow magnetic and it is also at the lowest point of the oil system.
So any stuff which is flowing around will be collected at this point.

Will the topside get down to this place? I don't know how the block is built, but for its purpose, the oil stick would only need to go down to the surface plus a little...

If it doesn't go that deep, you should possibly change the oil more often.
But it sounds like a good deal, as is seems to be much more comfortable.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Maybe I was misguided, but I thick the screw to drain the oil is somehow magnetic and it is also at the lowest point of the oil system.
So any stuff which is flowing around will be collected at this point.

Will the topside get down to this place? I don't know how the block is built, but for its purpose, the oil stick would only need to go down to the surface plus a little...

If it doesn't go that deep, you should possibly change the oil more often.
But it sounds like a good deal, as is seems to be much more comfortable.
Why not do it right and drain the oil :blush:
 

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Maybe I was misguided, but I thick the screw to drain the oil is somehow magnetic and it is also at the lowest point of the oil system.
So any stuff which is flowing around will be collected at this point.

Will the topside get down to this place? I don't know how the block is built, but for its purpose, the oil stick would only need to go down to the surface plus a little...

If it doesn't go that deep, you should possibly change the oil more often.
But it sounds like a good deal, as is seems to be much more comfortable.
If you change the oil while the engine is hot, any metal shavings will still be floating around in the oil or will be in the oil filter itself. Short of pulling the oil pan there is no way to get 100% of the oil out.
 

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If you change the oil while the engine is hot, any metal shavings will still be floating around in the oil or will be in the oil filter itself. Short of pulling the oil pan there is no way to get 100% of the oil out.
Don't modern motors have a magnet in the oil pan to collect any metal shavings trapped in the oil? I have seen this on car rebuild porn on Velocity, such as Wheelers Dealers.
 

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In reference to a post a few back I'm not worried about crushing my skull, but with the ambiguous jack points and jack stand points and low clearance it does give pause for thought. After looking I can tell that my car has been serviced with regard to the oil at east once. Will try next week. Also have new rubber now and appt with dealer in 10ish days. So far so good except the air has a mind of its own. That might be appt #2 :) Progress.....
 

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Just an update. I changed the oil a couple weeks ago and got the Leslie socket and just changed the filter. I was able to do it without removing anything. Its very tight for sure but here is what I did. 1. Unscrew the oil filter cap/cover, 2. Wait to let oil drain back in. 3. shove shop towels around as best you can. 4. pull out filter. 5. pull filter from cap while still in the area of the filter location and remove (it is way easier to get the filter out than the filter and the cover) 6. use a pick to remove and replace gasket on cover 7.cut knuckles and get new filter in place. 8. Press filter into cap. 9. screw cap down with moderate/minimal force. 10. soak up any miscreant oil bits.
It was really quite easy and there was minimal oil drippage. Again, just my process after one time trying.
QUESTION - does anyone know the specs/size on the crush washer for the oil drain?
 

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Just an update. I changed the oil a couple weeks ago and got the Leslie socket and just changed the filter. I was able to do it without removing anything. Its very tight for sure but here is what I did. 1. Unscrew the oil filter cap/cover, 2. Wait to let oil drain back in. 3. shove shop towels around as best you can. 4. pull out filter. 5. pull filter from cap while still in the area of the filter location and remove (it is way easier to get the filter out than the filter and the cover) 6. use a pick to remove and replace gasket on cover 7.cut knuckles and get new filter in place. 8. Press filter into cap. 9. screw cap down with moderate/minimal force. 10. soak up any miscreant oil bits.
It was really quite easy and there was minimal oil drippage. Again, just my process after one time trying.
QUESTION - does anyone know the specs/size on the crush washer for the oil drain?
Its not a crush type seal its a rubber seal I replace them every time I change the oil but don't lose to much sleep if you didn't this time next oil change replace it .
 
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