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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, so I live in Chicago, and we've had a particularly brutal winter. Yes, even though I had a battery tender, apparently I didn't install it properly. I turned the car on a few times for a few minutes, but couldn't drive it since the outside conditions weren't conducive.

Anyways, the battery died. So I bought a battery jumper, and jumped the battery. Everything was fine, I turned the car on, all seemed good, and I left the car in ready mode for quite some time (about two hours). I shut the car off, and the car immediately died. So I re-jumped, turned the car on/off, etc. a few times. Then I got a Q-Drive error, so I shut the car off.

Since then, whenever I turn the car on, everything lights up *except* the dashboard and PRND. So I can't put the car in D or even N. I unplugged the hard reset and plugged it back in, but I still have the same problem.

I looked in the manual to see if I could have blown a fuse, but as best as I read it, the fuses for those items are not near the positive pin in the fusebox.

Anyone have any ideas?
 

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Your battery is probably toast no matter how much you charge it can't hold a load. Pull 12V battery and have it load tested at your local auto store. Lot of people love to put tenders on these cars I prefer to just unplug the 12V and not have to worry about it. You are basically in the same position but now with a bricked 12V battery. Fisker themselves would leave the 12V unplugged when cars were not used for months at a time. Although if you have a bunch of presets probably would be a hassle to reset them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I know that. But how can I get the car to function again? Like I said, the problem now is that the car will turn on, and I can get it to ready mode, but the console doesn't light up at all (which I could deal with), but the PRND is non-responsive, so I can't put the car into drive, or Neutral. So I can't even get it to a flatbed.
 

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Pull the front passenger wheel off, then the front fender liner and pull the 12v battery out from behind the fender. Heck the AAA guy may even do it for you. If you don't want to do that get a 12V charger that has a "start mode" the AAA guy should have it and the car should have enough to power the PRNDL. The APM should put out enough power to allow for putting it into N. If this all fails then call AAA and have them put the rear wheels on GoJacks and load the car that way.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Perhaps I didn't fully explain. I can jump the car. *Everything* turns on, lights (interior, headlights), wipers, all internals (such as windows), etc. *EXCEPT* for the dashboard and the PRND. I can push the Start button, and the light will turn yellow (ACC mode), and then press the break and the Start button and the light (on the Start button) turns green (Ready mode). The low wattage subwoofer is on, etc. It's as if the car is running (and it seems like it is), except that the PRND is totally non-responsive.
 

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Take your volt meter go to the APM and measure the voltage in ready mode. What is the voltage? How many amps are you applying to the low voltage system when the vehicle is jumped. I would recommend a minimum of 30A. The car will behave in the manner you suggest in a low voltage situation (DSU and DIS not working). Are you leaving the jumper connected to the vehicle or removing it once the vehicle turns on?

CIU and DIS communicate over the same CAN-B protocol (so more often than not both may not respond if there is a VCM "wake-up" problem). There could be a communication issue between the VCM and DIS (but apparently your CIU is working); the proper thing to do would be to would be to remove the battery and have it load tested.

If you still do not want to do that, grab a voltmeter and measure the resistance and voltage at pin 3 and pin 11 on the diagnostic connector (located by the driver side left knee close to the engine boot pull release). After this is done post the numbers here and it can be determined if the proper wake-up voltage is going to the DIS.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Raven, this is exactly the sort of single item answer I was looking for. (I haven't tried it yet, but will report back.) Out of curiosity, how do you know that fuse 49 is for DIS/PRND? The only manual I have marks fuse 49 as HCU.
 

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Lets just say ive had the privilege of diagnosing an undisclosed amount of karmas in the past. HCU fuse is 17 ( 10A ) btw.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Well, unfortunately, fuse 49 isn't the problem. I checked it (and replaced it just in case) but still a no go. I also checked (but did not replace) fuses 17, 26, 31, 34, 36 - 39, and 48.

In terms of amps/voltage going in, I am using a 900 amp (max) jumper with an on/off switch. The 12v is now (since it's a but warmer?) holding a bit of charge, so after I jump, if I let the car sit in ready for 15 minutes, I can turn the car off and on a few times. And the HV seems to be charging my charger, since that starts showing a full charge.

Everything, and I mean, everything looks like its working fine. I can wash my windshield, move my chairs, the bluetooth connects, I can charge my phone, roll up/down my windows, etc. except that the display, the command center, and PRND are dead.

To re-iterate, this wasn't the case when I first jumped the car. I got about 3 or 4 starts with the jumper (trying the see if the battery worked) before I got this massive Q-Drive error, and since then the dash, console, and PRND are dead.

The reason why this is an issue is that my car is parked in a high-rise parking lot and a flatbed won't fit to the car (low ceiling and impossible turns). So it will be a real head-scratcher in how to get this out.

It would seem to me that I blew something, like a fuse, but since 49 (and the aforementioned weren't the issue), any other ideas?
 

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when you say "everything" looks like its working fine, those modules actually draw VERY little power to run. So that is NOT an indication of a healthy 12 volt battery. Your "900 amp" jumper i can gurantee you doesn't provide enough power either. 900 amps is only for a short burst to provide "cranking power". It doesn't sustain at 900 amps..

since you have bluetooth connection, the CIU definitely is fine.
I think it is possible that the VCM is not waking up the DIS, TPI.
PRND i believe have 2 wake up lines? VCM and HCU. Someone correct me if i'm wrong here. IF one of the wake up lines are not going to the PRND, it won't work.

You can try taking another 12 volt battery, and connect it to the existing 12 volt battery. Don't use one of those "battery jumper" devices. Just take another automotive 12 volt battery.

BTW, there are no replaceable fuses in wake up lines... so at this point, i doubt it is a simple "fuse fix"
 

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I have seen this problem before and it ended up being an APM/12V battery issue. The battery was only putting out 10.8v which triggered similar behavior. It takes about 20 mins to pull the battery and have it load tested or replaced. What voltage are you getting across the APM and on the 12V in off, acc and ready?

Just out of curiosity check the functionality of these items (outside chance it could be a malfunctioning PDC):

1. Does the steering column telescope and tilt?
2. Does the glove box open and illuminate
3. Does the HVAC work properly?
 

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VCM and HCU. Someone correct me if i'm wrong here. IF one of the wake up lines are not going to the PRND, it won't work.

If there is a connection to the VCM the DSU will still come on but all the lights will illuminate. IMO this is probably a low power, wake-up issue, or the slim chance of a melted connector in the fuse box. I believe the DSU is double fused.
 

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If the Instrument cluster doesn't light up when you open the door or the DSU doesn't light up you have lost the wake up signal from the VCM you can go to the HVAC module and check for 12 volts at the black with yellow tracer for 12 volts . I have posted this numerous times on other posts. This has become a common problem when the 12 volt battery goes dead
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So do I have a dead VCM? AAA won't replace the battery, they came out and tried jumping, but same problem. The battery now holds a charge, though. I didn't understand the part about the HVAC.
 

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Dude - you've got numerous experts and Fisker specialists who've resolved this problem before. Just go and replace the 12v battery instead of doing work arounds (fuses, charging/jumping, etc). You bought a complex high-tech vehicle costing over $100k new. Just go buy the replacement battery and reply with success and motor on!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
OK, sorry for not following up on this, but here is what happened.

1.) 12v dead
2.) I jumped the car, but the 12v didn't hold the charge
3.) After 2 or 3 jumps, the VCM lost the wake-up signal to the Command Center and the PRND.
4.) I had to have a tech from Fields in Northfield, IL come out. He was able reset the errors, reset the car, and to install a base version of the software
5.) Drove it to the dealer, where he replaced the 12v and re-installed the software

All is ok now. Note -- IF you lose your 12V. Tread carefully. Too many jumps and you'll kill your VCM. If that happens, you need the right equipment to reset the car. And that doesn't always work. There is a possibility you have to remove the VCM and send it to Fisker to reflash.

So take care of your 12v.
 

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OK, sorry for not following up on this, but here is what happened.

1.) 12v dead
2.) I jumped the car, but the 12v didn't hold the charge
3.) After 2 or 3 jumps, the VCM lost the wake-up signal to the Command Center and the PRND.
4.) I had to have a tech from Fields in Northfield, IL come out. He was able reset the errors, reset the car, and to install a base version of the software
5.) Drove it to the dealer, where he replaced the 12v and re-installed the software

All is ok now. Note -- IF you lose your 12V. Tread carefully. Too many jumps and you'll kill your VCM. If that happens, you need the right equipment to reset the car. And that doesn't always work. There is a possibility you have to remove the VCM and send it to Fisker to reflash.

So take care of your 12v.
You are correct about the 12 Volt battery but as the VCM it happens more to cars that have been left without a 12 volt charge for a few months their isn't really any rhyme or reason why the VCM dies . I've had a VCM die on a car left for two months and ones,that have gone 8 months no problem .
 

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I live in Switzerland and my plan is not to use my Fisker in Winter. I thought to just let it pugged in would be enough. I had a Maserati before and before that a Porsche and I just unplugged the 12V Battery over winter time and never had any problems in Spring. Do I have to do the same with my Fisker? what is the right treating for a Fisker over Winter month?
Thanks for your suggestions
Rabbit
 
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