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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Good Morning everyone. I am sure everyone is wondering how a damaged traction motor looks like. Attached you will find some pictures showing clearly the step between the good part and damaged part. I also put a picture of the differential shaft that got damaged and the other side that is good, just for a comparison.
 

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All the cars that produced they are going to fail like that one ,if they don't have new hardened motor splines
..
From what I read on the forum since last year and see others experience this could happen to many reason

Some suggested depend how you drive also if you u are in mountain area lot of hills on your daily drive
This can damage it faster ..
Most common happen low vins but members with high vins 16xx and up
Failed too..

Some suggest loctite and some say not enough cause of the tremendous amount of torque

Mileage they can fail at 5k 10k 15k 25k this highest miles I'm aware of



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All the cars that produced they are going to fail like that one ,if they don't have new hardened motor splines
..
From what I read on the forum since last year and see others experience this could happen to many reason

Some suggested depend how you drive also if you u are in mountain area lot of hills on your daily drive
This can damage it faster ..
Most common happen low vins but members with high vins 16xx and up
Failed too..

Some suggest loctite and some say not enough cause of the tremendous amount of torque

Mileage they can fail at 5k 10k 15k 25k this highest miles I'm aware of



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You are correct
 

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Thank you h guy ,, I'm honored
Lol....
So the button line if your car does not
Have hardened splines which is over 90% of them are not,,
Before it fail and leave you stranded in the middle of no where .. And do more costly damage ..
its good idea to get the car to one of expert
Alex Travis Adam or joe
To Rebuild the motor with hardened splines and updating the Rdm C clip




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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Yes the motor rebuild it is a good idea. Also we have done a few cars where we put the loctite on the splines and have not seen one failing yet. I am not saying is not possible but i am not aware of any that failed as of right now :)
 

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Is There are ways to inspect the motor status it? And then consider to rebuild the motor . How much cost different is to rebuild now or when motor is totally fails
 

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Is There are ways to inspect the motor status it? And then consider to rebuild the motor . How much cost different is to rebuild now or when motor is totally fails
the only way to inspect its to take RDM motor a parts.. its 3 days job can cost
2-5K just labor .. RDM ( 2 MOTORS AND Trans) 5-15k it depend what need to be replaced .
rebuild motors i think the way to go ,, if i remember correctly they are using better updated hardened splines. which is may be close to the quality of the new motors or may be better,,
 

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Ive done most of the possible scenarios. From new motors installed onto original rdm, complete new 3 pcs., just rdm. Ive loctited plenty of splines, it does work as a preventative so long as it is done early enough. I just had a car in 2 weeks ago. Guy spent $4000 at Miller in CT for rdm noise on decel. They loctited the splines, told him they couldnt get parts and put it back together! He left with the same noise and called Fisker who directed him to me. Hes a claimant so I got the car, pulled the rdm and it took 4 guys to seperate the 1 motor from the rdm. Loctite was holding well. The other motor on the pinion side of the rdm had worn splines ready to shear and the loctite didnt hold as there was too much play in the splines. The root cause of this failure is loosening of the pinion nut caused by a failure of collapsing the crush collar during assembly thus causing a "false torque"of the nut which eventually loosens up. This causes the pinion to wobble in the motor. Eventually causes a fluid leak of oil from the rdm and a loud whirring/whining on decel or hill mode/regen braking.
I replaced both motors and RDM under customer support. He paid a few thousand out of pocket but got the whole shebang new. He's thrilled now (but still pissed at the dealer in CT).
Bottom line here folks is that each situation is different and should be treated as such. If theres a problem, we drive it, isolate it and then tear it down. Best to prepare for worst case scenario and work from there. I've had clients with low miles pay me to pull rdm and loctite splines as a preventative and its been fine. When it holds on a good set of motors, the low speed growl is mostly gone.
also as a side note there are no traction motors left in the country currently. We're working to get more by the new year.
Hope this helps
 

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Wow

Thanks for this very useful info. Around which VIN # did Fisker install the hardened splines during production? Or do none of the produced Karmas have these hardened splines to begin with?
 

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Thanks for this very useful info. Around which VIN # did Fisker install the hardened splines during production? Or do none of the produced Karmas have these hardened splines to begin with?
i wish there is solid answer :huh: but no one knows,, till you tear it down and check
they fail low vins and high vins
 

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Hard spline motors will have a green circle anout 2" diameter stamped on them. This is the only external marking of any updating. However, no way to tell if a pinion is loosening up until it happens or its disassembled. Same for the park pawl noise requiring the newer type clip. No true VIN break on anything.
 

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Hard spline motors will have a green circle anout 2" diameter stamped on them. This is the only external marking of any updating. However, no way to tell if a pinion is loosening up until it happens or its disassembled. Same for the park pawl noise requiring the newer type clip. No true VIN break on anything.
i might be wrong ...but thought the green mark is for the updated DIFERENSIAL ( male) part , the motors ( female ) stilL have the soft splines so chances will fail as well after a while ..
 

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I have an issue with my fisker that is now stuck in parking in my slanted driveway. The indicator light and all move as they are supposed to but it goes into parking system fault and acts like the break or pawl is stuck. I've pulled the connectors from the hybrid control unit and the engine control unit and did soft and hard reset. nothing has worked...any ideas or suggestions would be greatly appreciated...this is high number vin and all latest software...
 

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Is the motor and parking pawl it operates easy to get to and check? The car had 8500 miles on it to date.
No it's not easy to check usually when a traction motor spins the splines out the motor will spin it's pretty loud and you will get all kinds of failure messages showing . It is a possibility you have a Rdm failure
 

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The parking system fault is the only message right now. There's nothing loud or noisy going on even when press the gas the car will try and move but only kind of jumps or moves an inch in one direction or the other. It's like the pawl is stuck in park but otherwise the car is trying to work as it should.
 
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