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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all! Haven't posted in awhile, but I'm still loving my car :-D

Saturday, though, my GF talked me in to going through the Arby's drive through, and wouldn't you know it, I curbed the wheel on the way out! Deep scratches all the way around, 360 degrees, with a little road rash near the tire. Grrr! Nothing that can't be fixed, I guess.

But about 5 minutes after, while driving, my check engine light came on. The Diagnostic section of the infotainment doesn't tell me anything, though, it's just the general CEL.

I've driven it 3 times since, for both short and longer distances, and it's not turning off, so I don't think this is a simple reset.

I thought it was odd timing that it came on right after curbing the wheel, though. Does the CEL cover alignment, or any other wheel related issue that doesn't come up in the Diagnostic section?
 

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Unfortunately no. If alignment was out bad enough (as in bent tie rod and steering wheel off 45 degrees it may turn on the traction control or abs symbol as the steering angle sensor will be confused that the car is going straight but steering wheel is turning.
Sounds like bad timing, but good roast beef :D
 

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Try hard reset - unplugging the main connector in the engine bay... it happens to me - rarely though - and strangely CEL light does not go off after the reset but after couple of drives with the car. If the light is still on, then try to read the error code with OBDE scanner - there were some codes posted on this site that could indicate the error. However usually only Fisker diagnostic computer will be able to tell what is the problem. Usually it involves battery. Let us know what was the problem so there is a trail of acquired knowledge left on this site for other Fisker inmates.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Unfortunately for me, there's not a Fisker dealership anywhere close to me. The closest I knew about was 100 miles away, but it's closed now.

I'll try the hard reset, though, and keep you posted. Is the main connector labeled or fairly obvious? If not, what does it look like?

It wouldn't be so irritating except that it takes away my digital speedometer. What's up with that?
 

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A hard reset may or may not turn off the CEL, but it will wipe out the underlying code that caused it, plus it may erase some of your personal settings, and will most likely make you recaliberate the parking brake. Before doing that, it would be worthwhile to use a generic ODBII scanner to read the actual code. You can also use the same device to reset the CEL light without having to do a hard reset. If you don't have one, just go to any garage and have them read the code using their ODBII scanner and to turn off the light.
 

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This is the one I have been using. It supports IOS via Bluetooth and can read codes and turn off the CEL/MIL without a problem. You can also use it to monitor the ICE in real time, but does not provide any information about the EV part of the propulsion system, which is probably why they are not recommended for EVs.
 

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JC.....Amazon shows a price of $69.95 and states that its not for electric cars or hybrids.
I use this scan tool as well on my Karma - bought it in May and leave it plugged into the car. I'm not sure why they say it can't be used for hybrids.

This device support Android phones and the model that Fabulist uses supports iPhones....so these are 2 reasonably priced OBD tools that can provide basic code info and reset the CEL, if needed.
 

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Sorry - I typo'd and meant $70. I never noticed the "not for EV/Hybrid" comment, because I had it recommended to me from another Fisker owner. I just bought it, and I leave it in my car, too. It will tell you the CEL codes, and if they are codes you are prepared to live with for a while, you can tell your phone to tell the device to clear them.

EG: I have a weak cell that keeps me from getting Stealth miles 0-8 - which I'll fix someday. So, when my car tells me it detected a voltage variance issue nearly every day when I get down 20 Stealth Miles, I can whip my phone out and say "OK. Thanks. Now, please give me back my speedometer!!" I asked LorMax about those codes, and know that they are "livable". :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Just as an update for future readers, I bought the OBDLink that JCMorrill linked, and it worked in minutes. Awesome! I don't know why it says that it doesn't work with hybrids, either.

This was a few weeks ago, and I've forgotten the code now. But it had something to do with the engine idling for more than 2 minutes with a certain amount of precipitation or condensation. I meant to save it and post it for future reference, but oh well :-( Regardless, it wasn't critical, so resetting it through the OBDLink was fine.

Thanks to all that replied!
 

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I use the thing roughly every other day when my car wants to tell me about my weak cell. Glad to help, but I really must give the credit to WattGas - he's the one who told me! :)
 

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OBDII Code Reader

I bought an OBDII code reader off Amazon for $17 and it uses Wi-Fi to interface with my iPhone. I paid another $5 for the App to be able to read and clear the codes.
There are free App's but I couldn't find one that would clear the code so I paid the $$$ for the upgrade.

Here is a link to the OBDII code reader~ It claimed it came with software but it didn't and the seller was unresponsive. Turns out I didn't need it anyway. But that being said I can't recommend the seller.
[ame="http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYOVXZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1"]http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYOVXZ0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1[/ame]

And although the OBDII code reader with the $5 App will clear basic codes on your Fisker, most CEL's will need the Fisker diagnostic tool to clear the CEL ~ Like the one Joe just sent me and remotely linked into my Karma to clear everything out, update software, and check status of modules.
 
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