dennis, nice. Huntsville is much closer to those national averages. Nerds rule the world, just look at Bill Gates.
It's roughly 20 kWh (depends of course how "empty" you have the battery when you "fill up"). The cost depends on what electricity costs you (personally) per kWh, which varies widely around the country. Mine is roughly $.10/kWh, or $2 for a "complete fill".ffcars said:How many kwh does it take to charge the car? In other words, what's our cost to fill up with electric?
I thought this particular comparison was for fuel cost only. If we start factoring in service cost and the cost of components wearing out (12 V Battery, Transmission, Tires, Filters, etc.) we are going to end up with an entirely different calculus but to be fair it should be the same on both sides of the comparison. They are both valid comparisons, but we should be comparing apples to apples either way.brian said:Technically, you need to factor in the cost of battery degradation per mile too, and that adds a lot to it.
As I understand it, the battery does not stop working at 100K miles. That's when it drops to 85% of capacity. You can continue to drive on that battery, albeit with a shorter EV range, which means you could run the ICE more often and burn more gas. The same thing happens in internal combustion cars where the engine output drops off over time and you have to work the engine harder for the same level of performance and you end up using more gas, but you generally don't run out and put a new engine in the car if your BHP and Torque output drop to 85% of a new engine.brian said:Well, the battery is a consumable item that is directly related to miles driven, so I think it is relevant. The battery isn't like other normal components that wear out. Since we know that the battery has a life of 100,000 miles then you need to divide the cost of replacing it by 100k to get a battery-cost-per mile additional cost. Granted, most of us will have traded the car in before 100k miles, but still..,
It is not running the battery all the way down, so the full charge is more like 17-18 kwh for 30-35 miles. Using 32 miles, that works out to about $.11/mile in pure electric mode.SoCalGuy said:In pure electric mode, wouldn't you see closer to $0.13 per mile (20.1kWh x $0.20 / 32 miles) or as little as $0.08 per mile (assuming 50 mile range)?
Interesting... with most of my freeway driving (around 75-80mph), I get around 20 or 21mpg.dennis said:It is not running the battery all the way down, so the full charge is more like 17-18 kwh for 30-35 miles. Using 32 miles, that works out to about $.11/mile in pure electric mode.SoCalGuy said:In pure electric mode, wouldn't you see closer to $0.13 per mile (20.1kWh x $0.20 / 32 miles) or as little as $0.08 per mile (assuming 50 mile range)?
I also don't get 20mpg on the ICE going 80 mph on the freeway, probably more like 16, which works out to $.25/mile. So the "blended" cost ends up at $.18. Coincidentally the $ spent on gasoline and electricity were almost equal with my particular driving pattern.
Is that with the battery at zero?SoCalGuy said:Interesting... with most of my freeway driving (around 75-80mph), I get around 20 or 21mpg.
That's with battery somewhere in the single digits, like 8 miles range or so. Similar results when battery was in the teens too.dennis said:Is that with the battery at zero?SoCalGuy said:Interesting... with most of my freeway driving (around 75-80mph), I get around 20 or 21mpg.
I will reset one of the trip meters next time battery is zero and see what the reported mpg is with ICE only. I haven't done that yet, so my 16 mpg was estimated based on how much fuel I used yesterday driving 110 miles with both battery and ICE.