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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently tried to start my Karma and I got a flashing "Ready" signal however I could not put the car into Drive. After playing around with it for awhile, including engaging the parking brake as instructed, somehow the car got stuck in Neutral. I let it rest overnight and in the morning called a tow company to get a jump and, while the 12V battery was connected to the portable jumping device, I was able to get the car back into Park but the "Ready" signal started flashing again and I was still not able to put the car into Drive. I then had my Karma towed to the former Fisker dealership and am now being told the CIU is shot and that the cost for parts and labor to replace is $3800. Frankly, I am not sure how well trained the mechanics are because they no longer sell Fiskers but claim to have a mechanic that is familiar with the cars.

Before I flip the bill for this expense, I was wondering if any of you that know much more about the Karma than I do, have any suggestions or work arounds. Much appreciated.

PS: All of this started immediately after I turned the car on and then accidentally turned it off before it had fully powered up. Not sure if this is relevant.
 

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The CIU has nothing to do with "blinking ready" if there is an issue there it is unrelated to the car not being able to go into drive.

In "blinking ready" mode the only two gear positions allowed are Neutral and Park.

Are you on 53x? Could be several issues. If you can, please ask your repair shop for the error codes and post them here.
 

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ciu can NOT cause the car to flash ready. you can disconnect it and car will run fine. Who is working on the car, my guess is there is a contactor fault in the battery which can be reset with a simple 12v reset.
 

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I agree, they have no clue or just want your money. I always do a hard reset before I start calling tow trucks. I bet it's the 535 fault cured by a hard reset.

Have a look my thread from Xmas and see if it is the same cbermudez8
 

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PS: All of this started immediately after I turned the car on and then accidentally turned it off before it had fully powered up. Not sure if this is relevant.
Same thing happened to me. (Only difference was that I also had the fuel door unlatched, which is why I interrupted the power on cycle when I went out to close it.)

Left the car sit for awhile and the soft reset fixed it.

P.S. Can you say which former dealership told you the CIU was bad?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks guys! I called the dealership and was told that they did a 530 and then a 535 update the last time I took my car in (about 2 months ago). I also asked for the error codes but am still waiting to hear back. I will post them as soon as I receive them.

In the meantime, can someone clarify the difference between a hard reset, soft reset, and 12V reset? All of these terms are used in the responses I received to my original post.

Ira, if you want to email me at [email protected] I will answer the question about the name of the dealership. I rather not smear anyone publicly unless/until I am sure something nefarious is occurring.
 

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pretty certain 53x is causing it... do a hard reset (pull 12v on passenger side fender- black connector cable see this post). Would direct your CSP to downgrade you to 520, that will likely solve your problem.

I am curious as to why your CSP thinks the CIU is causing the issue. There could be something wrong with it but the tell-tales would be different (distorted audio, garbled display etc) and unrelated to your vehicle not being able to drive.

There is an off-chance it could be something else, but the above is likely the solution to your blinking ready light. Karma should pick up the bill for software flashes, so it essentially should cost you nothing to fix the problem (save a dealer-imposed "diagnostic" fee).
 

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In the meantime, can someone clarify the difference between a hard reset, soft reset, and 12V reset? All of these terms are used in the responses I received to my original post.
Hard Reset and 12V reset, and pulling 12 are the same thing. They involve disconnecting the 12V battery's ground connection on the passenger side of the engine, and waiting some period of time before reconnecting it. This is analogous to pulling out a computer's plug out of the wall and then plugging it back in a few minutes later.

A soft reset means turning the car off and waiting for the gear selector light to go off (and mirrors to fold if you have that setting enabled). Depending on your software version, this could take 45 seconds or 2 minutes. This is analogous to pressing Carl-Alt-Del on a computer running windows.

A soft reset resolves certain problems and it should be tried first because it preserves error codes and other data that can be read using Fisker's diagnostic systems. A hard reset is usually the last resort and it can wipe out a lot of diagnostic information. It also requires re-caliberating the parking brake, which the soft reset does not.

Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I spoke to my Fisker mechanic and asked him to put in writing their diagnosis of what is wrong with my Karma. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Here is his explanation:

"You have a water leak from the cowl seal causing the ciu to short out therefore causing a battery drain intermittently. When the tech disconnected the ciu to check he noticed it wet. Upon disconnect the drain went away. The solution for repair is to replace the damaged(wet) CIU. Cost approx. $3800. Option # 2 is to seal the water leak and clean the CIU with electrical cleaner-(much cheaper option however no guarantee on how long the CIU will perform. Cost for option # 2 $1300. Please contact me with or questions or concerns. Thanks"
 

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I spoke to my Fisker mechanic and asked him to put in writing their diagnosis of what is wrong with my Karma. Any feedback would be much appreciated. Here is his explanation:

"You have a water leak from the cowl seal causing the ciu to short out therefore causing a battery drain intermittently. When the tech disconnected the ciu to check he noticed it wet. Upon disconnect the drain went away. The solution for repair is to replace the damaged(wet) CIU. Cost approx. $3800. Option # 2 is to seal the water leak and clean the CIU with electrical cleaner-(much cheaper option however no guarantee on how long the CIU will perform. Cost for option # 2 $1300. Please contact me with or questions or concerns. Thanks"

RUN dont WALK away from that dealer... this has nothing to do with flashing ready
 

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Check out this thread: http://www.fiskerbuzz.com/forums/14-fisker-lounge/4385-water-leak-prevention-silicone.html.

You should also check the black windshield seal running under the wiper blades. These were not sealed properly at the factory and can be another source of leaks. PM me and I'll provide the sealants I used to fix these issues (cowl and windshield) if you want to tackle it yourself. It's not a big job.

In any event, I would take the car (or send the CIU) to a Fisker Automotive Service Provider for second opinion about the unit.
 

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Ira, could you post the sealer you used?
For the cowling you can use 3M Clear Auto Sealer #08551 . It's a high-quality, general-purpose sealer for temps up to 200 F.

(I used a silicone sealer that works up to 500 F only because I had it lying around. Check out Amazon for the high-temp stuff if you want to go that route, but it's probably overkill.)

For the windshield weatherstrip, I used 3M Yellow Super Adhesive #08001 . It has held up well for several years.
 

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I spoke with this owner and he actually has two problems going on . He seems to actually have a CIU fault and 535 caused his blinking ready light.
 

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I'm still recovering from the $3800 CIU quote...guess I better do a market analysis and change my pricing? That's darn near double my price :O
 
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