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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK, guys, this one makes me nervous.

Wednesday, on my way to dinner, my CEL came on while driving. When I got home I used my handy-dandy OBDLink II, and it showed an error that I can't quite remember... P0EE04, maybe? I remember that the description was kinda vague, and I couldn't find anything on Google. But I cleared it and it didn't come back, so I figured it wasn't anything major.

Drove all day Thursday, no problem.

Then today (Friday) I hopped in the car, turned it on, and the CEL was back on. I was in a hurry and figured it wasn't anything major, so I tried to put it in Reverse, anyway, but... it wouldn't go out of park! I tried all 3 gears, and nothing.

I turned it off, waited 2 minutes, turned it back on, and still had the same problem.

Being in a hurry, I plugged it back up and borrowed my GF's car, thinking I'd work on it when I got back.

Then when I got back, I unplugged it, turned it on, and everything looks fine! No CEL, and it goes in Reverse just fine.

So now I'm nervous. Was this a one-time fluke and nothing to worry about, or am I having an intermittent problem that's going to leave me stranded somewhere? Worst case scenario, I'm at a client meeting, make a big sale, then I'm stranded in the parking lot with an attention-getting car that won't start :-O

Worth noting that I just had a contactor and, I think, at least 2 modules replaced in November, replaced the central muffler, and had the CIU updated to the latest software. I don't remember everything they did off the top of my head, but I can look it up if you guys think it's relevant.
 

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This sounds like yet another 53x issue. The only known way to fix this is to go back to 520 or pull the 12v (hard reset).

If it was P04ee that is not much to be worried about most Karma's will display that code over time... has to do with the EVAP canister diagnostics.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hmm. You mean that it's the CIU software update? If that's the case, is it always something that I can just turn it off for awhile and it'll fix itself? Or do I need to be concerned about hardware failure because of it?

Changing the software for me requires a pretty lengthy drive, so unless it's critical it's probably not going to happen :(

You're probably right on the P04EE error... that sounds right, anyway. Hopefully that was unrelated, I just thought it worth mentioning since they were only 2 days apart.
 

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Hmm. You mean that it's the CIU software update? If that's the case, is it always something that I can just turn it off for awhile and it'll fix itself? Or do I need to be concerned about hardware failure because of it?

Changing the software for me requires a pretty lengthy drive, so unless it's critical it's probably not going to happen :(

You're probably right on the P04EE error... that sounds right, anyway. Hopefully that was unrelated, I just thought it worth mentioning since they were only 2 days apart.
53x was not a CIU update it was a vehicle update that flashed certain modules/sub-systems in the vehicle.

See here:

http://www.fiskerbuzz.com/forums/234018-post1.html

The flashing ready (not going into D/R) will not fix itself and will happen at random for unknown reasons at this point. The only known immediate fix is to do a hard reset by pulling the black 12v cable on the passenger side fender.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Ahh, I see. Is that a hard cable to access? And I'm assuming that the hard reset would be a temporary fix, and it would happen again later unless I downgrade the software?

My closest dealership is about a 10 hour drive, which means that I'll jump through a few hoops to not have to drive it there again! Would it be plausible to put a fuse block on the black cable that's within easy reach, then when necessary just pop the fuse out for a few minutes?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Ahh, super easy :D I don't mind playing under the hood (my first business was customizing cars), as long as I can do it while wearing a tie and I don't look stupid in the parking lot :)

Thanks for the tip on the key! Rolling the window down was always Step#1 in my old shop for that very reason, but that was a looooong time ago! LOL
 

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When you open the hood for a hard reset, and you accidentally close the hood while the cable is still pulled out, can you still open the hood with the normal button inside the car, I mean is this button a mechanical or an electronical button (with the need of power supplied)
Grts Wim
 

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Ahh, super easy :D I don't mind playing under the hood (my first business was customizing cars), as long as I can do it while wearing a tie and I don't look stupid in the parking lot :)

Thanks for the tip on the key! Rolling the window down was always Step#1 in my old shop for that very reason, but that was a looooong time ago! LOL
Whenever I have to do this, which is not very often fortunately, I go one step further and leave the driver side door open. Remember that the primary door opening mechanism is electronic and will not work with the cable disconnected. That way, if I happen to close the hood, I don't have to resort to body origami to reach the hood latch from the driver side window.
 

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Whenever I have to do this, which is not very often fortunately, I go one step further and leave the driver side door open. Remember that the primary door opening mechanism is electronic and will not work with the cable disconnected. That way, if I happen to close the hood, I don't have to resort to body origami to reach the hood latch from the driver side window.
I usually use the interior manual cable (through the open window) if the electronic door lock mechanism does not engage after a 12v disconnect.
 

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I usually use the interior manual cable (through the open window) if the electronic door lock mechanism does not engage after a 12v disconnect.
That's not any easier to reach through the window than the hood release, IMHO. Leaving the driver side door open seems a lot easier.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
I had to use this technique today and this thread came up first on Google when I looked for it, so I wanted to give a little more info to future readers.

First, let me point out that I haven't had this particular problem since I first posted about it in January. And today, the car started just fine and I went to a restaurant. Finished dinner, came out, and... CEL on and it wouldn't go out of drive. So no apparent reason for it.

(Other than the fact that I was in a restaurant parking area on Main Street, in the rain, with cars passing by constantly)

I first used OBDLink to reset the error code, but that didn't fix it.

Then I went with a friend to the post office, letting it sit (locked) for about 10 minutes. Came back, but same problem. That's when I Googled and found this thread again.

So, I popped the hood, and the connector was immediately visible on the passenger side. But how to unplug it wasn't quite so obvious.

There's what looks like a gray button in the middle. I pushed it in, then pressed down on the black part of the button, but it wouldn't disconnect.

Then there's a gray plug at the far right end. I used a flathead screwdriver to disconnect it on both sides, but it wouldn't pull out or anything so that was useless.

Then a helpful passerby said that it looked just like his Jeep, and instead of pushing the gray button in, you should pull it out. THAT worked... I pulled backwards on it and it popped completely out, then the black button pressed easily and it disconnected with no problem.

I expected the alarm to go off, based on what someone else said, but it didn't. I let it sit for about a 30 seconds, then plugged it back in. Then it started, no CEL, and went into Drive with no problem.

So I'm glad to have had this thread to fall back on (especially the picture that someone posted in the other thread), but I'm hoping that this further information on how to disconnect will help.

Oh, and it's worth noting that I lost all of my radio presets, but all of the other vehicle settings stayed... so that was kinda weird. I wish I could remember my presets now :p
 
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