[rex]

My CEL light was on. Hoping it would reset, I went about my usual routine, and plugged it into the L1 charger overnight, but it didn't take a charge. I tried it again today, and no luck.

The car clicks, and looks to take a charge based on the L1 charger, then stops after a few seconds, and the L1 charger shows full.

I have over 11k miles, and have had CEL a few times, but always reset itself, and this is the first time I have encountered it not taking a charge. I am not 4 hours drive from a dealer and looking for what I should try.

Should I try a hard reset? Try a L2 charger in town? leave the car unplugged for the week while I am traveling? Suggestions?

 

[8AVGMPG]

Is this the Fisker/Lear 110 charger?

 

[rex]

It is the Fisker convenience charger.

I can post a video of it starting and stopping the charge, if that is helpful.

 

[8AVGMPG]

Also, did the CEL just come on? or has it been on for awhile and the charging concern is new? Its important to differentiate.

If its the fisker/lear 110 charger then I would inspect the button and latch, make sure it is not broken because they are notorious for breaking and will cause the same symptoms you described.

If the CEL/Charging concern are both new we'd have to get the fault codes BUT with the symptoms you described I would wager that your OBCM is bad.

Please don't ever disconnect the 12 volt battery ever if you have any type of problem, it will erase all diagnostic information.

 

[rex]

I posted the video to Flickr album: http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/

Here is the video:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9391669942/

 

[8AVGMPG]

I can post a video of it starting and stopping the charge, if that is helpful.

Couldn't hurt.

 

[rex]

Also, did the CEL just come on? or has it been on for awhile and the charging concern is new? Its important to differentiate.

If its the fisker/lear 110 charger then I would inspect the button and latch, make sure it is not broken because they are notorious for breaking and will cause the same symptoms you described.

If the CEL/Charging concern are both new we'd have to get the fault codes BUT with the symptoms you described I would wager that your OBCM is bad.

Please don't ever disconnect the 12 volt battery ever if you have any type of problem, it will erase all diagnostic information.

First, thank you for giving me something to look into.

The CEL came on Saturday. It didn't charge that night. The latch is broken off completely. It has been that way since Fisker dealer sent me a replacement one for mine that died. But, maybe now it is noticing the missing latch. Let me try a 220 charger in town. (I've been waiting to get the new blink charger coming out in september, and have been using the 110 for the past year, and occasion 220 at public spaces).

 

[rex]

Couldn't hurt.

In the video, http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/9391669942/

you can see the 110 unit. Then, once plugged in, you can hear the click of the car taking the charge... then it charges for a few seconds, then stops as if it is full. The lighting is dark, but hopefully the video is good enough to see.

 

[8AVGMPG]

Yeah I would rule out the faulty charger first and foremost but the latch issue shouldn't turn on the CEL which is why I am suspecting the OBCM with a P0D67 fault code.

Just to rule out another possibility/long shot. There is a diode in one of the wiring harnessses that when faulty can cause charging issues. If you turn the car on to ACC mode, plug in the charger, does it do the same thing?

 

[rex]

I tried another charger, a 220 clipper creek, and it clicked on, then off a second or so later. I tried the ACC mode and same thing.

So the OBCM... how common is this issue? I wish it could have gone out a week earlier, when I was in silicon valley. That would have been much more convenient

Two follow-ups:
1. I would be interested in a run down of the most common issues. If you give me a list, I'll create a poll and we can see how common the issues are experienced by those voting in the poll.

2. In this case, any risk in driving the car in gas mode for 200 miles to the silicon valley dealer? And, in a situation where I couldn't drive it, i'd be interested in the rate card to fly in and fix (and would I need a device to read out the codes so diagnostics can be done remotely?). How are folks on this list handling issues like this?

 

[Harleyguy]

EDM relays are bad in the HV battery if the car charges for a few seconds and you hear the HV relays kick out it's probably the problem I've replaced a few all ready . Rex where are located

 

[Harleyguy]

If you plug the charger in and within a few seconds you hear the HV relays kick out one of the relays in the EDM is more then likely has failed .I've replaced a few of them all ready . Also as mentioned the diode in the truck needs to be checked and replaced if bad . I've replaced that diode and still had bad relays in the HV battery . Where are you located

 

[rex]

EDM relays are bad in the HV battery if the car charges for a few seconds and you hear the HV relays kick out it's probably the problem I've replaced a few all ready . Rex where are located

I'll PM you.

 

[8AVGMPG]

If you plug the charger in and within a few seconds you hear the HV relays kick out one of the relays in the EDM is more then likely has failed .I've replaced a few of them all ready . Also as mentioned the diode in the truck needs to be checked and replaced if bad . I've replaced that diode and still had bad relays in the HV battery . Where are you located

Good call I didn't think of that. Since it doesn' t charge in ACC, that rules out the diode + a faulty diode wouldn't case the CEL.

 

[8AVGMPG]

I tried another charger, a 220 clipper creek, and it clicked on, then off a second or so later. I tried the ACC mode and same thing.

So the OBCM... how common is this issue? I wish it could have gone out a week earlier, when I was in silicon valley. That would have been much more convenient

Two follow-ups:
1. I would be interested in a run down of the most common issues. If you give me a list, I'll create a poll and we can see how common the issues are experienced by those voting in the poll.

2. In this case, any risk in driving the car in gas mode for 200 miles to the silicon valley dealer? And, in a situation where I couldn't drive it, i'd be interested in the rate card to fly in and fix (and would I need a device to read out the codes so diagnostics can be done remotely?). How are folks on this list handling issues like this?

1. OBCMs were common early on because a lot of them came with faulty temp sensors. More common is the OBCM Coolant valve not opening causing the OBCM to overheat and stop charging. Faulty charging contactors are becoming more and more common. The faulty diode & other misc. wiring issues are fairly common as well.

2. Regardless of whether its an OBCM or charging contactor relay, your car is 100% safe to drive, you just wont be able to charge it.

I would contact Hybrid Support Solutions [email protected] about either loaning you a scan tool or flying out to fix the problem as they can do both. They also have a lot of experience opening up HV batteries and replacing contactors/cells/etc. Even if you end up taking it to Silicon Valley they'll probably end up doing the work for the dealership. Harleyguy/Miami Fisker is the only dealer I know with the balls to open up a HV pack.

 

[Harleyguy]

Good call I didn't think of that. Since it doesn' t charge in ACC, that rules out the diode + a faulty diode wouldn't case the CEL.

Some of the things you taught me stuck

 

[SoCalGuy]

So with my Silver, I had similar problems except no CEL. At first, my dealer thought it was my Chargepoint L2 charger that was "frying" my OBCM since they had replaced the OBCM twice and it looked burn out. Then they had someone from HQ checkout my car and they traced it back to a faulty diode somewhere in the charging system. They replaced my HV battery, the diode and put in a new OBCM (my fourth), and its worked ever since without any problems.

 

[DNAGuy]

Same Problem, Different Reason

I had the same problem without the CEL. Battery would start charging and then stop immediately. Could here the relays clicking. After 6 weeks got a new HV battery and then the battery would charge to 30% - 50% and stop. This turned out to be (according to Fisker of OC) an air bubble in the cooling system of the battery that was blocking circulation and causing engine to overheat. When that was repaired had no trouble for the next 12 months until I sold the car.

Buck