Most any off the shelf obd II software will work. Been using Torque for many months now
Anyone Use Dash Command or Similar Software with Their Karma?
I have a GoPoint BT1 OBDII interface that I use to check codes and to clear the MIL/CEL. Since it is wireless and powered by the OBDII connector, I just leave it plugged in all the time.
While this is pretty convenient, I would like to use it more often to monitor the car's performance. I know that Fisker uses its own proprietary codes, but I was wondering if anyone is using Dash Command, or similar software, to get any information from the Karma's OBDII port either using the GM setting for the engine, or just a generic setting that could provide some data. I am not very optimistic, but thought it would be worth a try to see if anyone has found any software that could provide any information at all from the OBD II Port.
While this is pretty convenient, I would like to use it more often to monitor the car's performance. I know that Fisker uses its own proprietary codes, but I was wondering if anyone is using Dash Command, or similar software, to get any information from the Karma's OBDII port either using the GM setting for the engine, or just a generic setting that could provide some data. I am not very optimistic, but thought it would be worth a try to see if anyone has found any software that could provide any information at all from the OBD II Port.
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
What kind of vehicle does it think you have? With Dash Command you have to buy a specific module for each car.
I used to use ScanXL quite frequently for CAN data dumps when trying to find definition commands (until that got shut down by the TMC folks who didn't want us to use their bandwidth for an open source Karma app). Anyways, there is a generic setting that was used that gave about 200 different parameters. I believe it was a generic J1979 (500K) CAN protocol. Seemed to work fine but now that I have Canalyzer I don't use it much.
Nope its the HV battery, the volts gauge on the bottom right is for the 12v.
smoothoperator
Can the Torque be used to help diagnose "reduced performance" error?
I have lost confidence in my locator dealer in the Detroit area. It seems that they really don't want to be bothered with the Fisker Karma and I prefer not to be bothered with them.
They didn't have the Karma long enough to develop the skill set necessary to diagnose and fix problems like Lomax and Harleyguy and others on this board.
I would like to have contacts with other Fisker owners in my area so that we can fly Lomax in to make repairs.
The reduced performance error leaves me afraid to drive the vehicle beyond the battery capacity because I might not make it back home. The ICE won’t engage when this error message is displayed. A warm or hard reset may eliminate the error but it comes back in a few minutes or it could last a couple days or so.
My battery was replaced when I purchased the car and it seems to be performing well. I'm able to drive the car 40 to 45 miles on a charge.
On occasions, when the ICE is cold it seems to not run as smooth as it should but once it warms up it runs ok.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Samuel
Can the Torque be used to help diagnose "reduced performance" error?
I have lost confidence in my locator dealer in the Detroit area. It seems that they really don't want to be bothered with the Fisker Karma and I prefer not to be bothered with them.
They didn't have the Karma long enough to develop the skill set necessary to diagnose and fix problems like Lomax and Harleyguy and others on this board.
I would like to have contacts with other Fisker owners in my area so that we can fly Lomax in to make repairs.
The reduced performance error leaves me afraid to drive the vehicle beyond the battery capacity because I might not make it back home. The ICE won’t engage when this error message is displayed. A warm or hard reset may eliminate the error but it comes back in a few minutes or it could last a couple days or so.
My battery was replaced when I purchased the car and it seems to be performing well. I'm able to drive the car 40 to 45 miles on a charge.
On occasions, when the ICE is cold it seems to not run as smooth as it should but once it warms up it runs ok.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Samuel
I have not been following your issue but this is more or less a novelty. From your brief description of the problem I believe it is a misfire issue (P03xx). Does the engine also come on randomly? Your best bet is to go grab a 15 dollar OBD scanner from Amazon or your local parts store and create a thread with all the pertinent information. Not sure how handy you are but could probably walk you through a few possible fixes. I had this issue on a Karma, it ended up being the EVAP Vent Solenoid after I replaced that and ran a few tanks with fuel injector cleaner the mis-fire issue cleared right up. Of course you could have a coupler issue or something else.smoothoperator
Can the Torque be used to help diagnose "reduced performance" error?
I have lost confidence in my locator dealer in the Detroit area. It seems that they really don't want to be bothered with the Fisker Karma and I prefer not to be bothered with them.
They didn't have the Karma long enough to develop the skill set necessary to diagnose and fix problems like Lomax and Harleyguy and others on this board.
I would like to have contacts with other Fisker owners in my area so that we can fly Lomax in to make repairs.
The reduced performance error leaves me afraid to drive the vehicle beyond the battery capacity because I might not make it back home. The ICE won’t engage when this error message is displayed. A warm or hard reset may eliminate the error but it comes back in a few minutes or it could last a couple days or so.
My battery was replaced when I purchased the car and it seems to be performing well. I'm able to drive the car 40 to 45 miles on a charge.
On occasions, when the ICE is cold it seems to not run as smooth as it should but once it warms up it runs ok.
Any suggestion would be appreciated.
Samuel
I went to Pep Boys and here are the codes from the read out:
U0140: Lost Communication with body Control
P0A4C: Generator Position Sensor Circuit
P1CC4: No DTC Definition not found
P0AC4: Hybrid Power Train Control Module Request
Beside the "Reduced Performance" problem described above the only other problem I have is the Brake Calibration error. I have to recalibrate the parking brake two or three times a day.
Samuel
U0140: Lost Communication with body Control
P0A4C: Generator Position Sensor Circuit
P1CC4: No DTC Definition not found
P0AC4: Hybrid Power Train Control Module Request
Beside the "Reduced Performance" problem described above the only other problem I have is the Brake Calibration error. I have to recalibrate the parking brake two or three times a day.
Samuel
Are you handy with a volt meter?
I believe the issue may be between the gen inverter and gen itself (possibly a short or cable issue). Did this car have the gen grounds campaign done (never seen one that hasn't)?. We can run a few tests to see if there is a short or bad inverter if you know how to use a voltmeter. Obviously you need to disable the HV before any of this.
I believe the issue may be between the gen inverter and gen itself (possibly a short or cable issue). Did this car have the gen grounds campaign done (never seen one that hasn't)?. We can run a few tests to see if there is a short or bad inverter if you know how to use a voltmeter. Obviously you need to disable the HV before any of this.
Thank you. Right now I'm trying to make home with 10 miles left on the battery. I'm experiencing range anxiety.
I am handy with a volt meter and 30 years ago I left the auto industry with 17 years in auto repair.
Provide me with the instructions
I am handy with a volt meter and 30 years ago I left the auto industry with 17 years in auto repair.
Provide me with the instructions
Sent you a PM with my contact information call me when you have a chance and we can go over the troubleshooting procedure.
For the last two months or so I’ve been running in stealth mode (battery) only because of a “reduced performance” error message. The error message goes away and only comes back when I go in sports mode and the ICE comes on. After a short period of time the ICE goes off and the “reduce performance” error message comes back on. As long as I stay in stealth mode, battery only the message will eventually go away and I’m fine. It will sometime do this in hill mode without the ICE.
Volts and resistance at the front inverter connection are in normal range which indicate the problem may be the front inverter. I’m absolutely sure that it’s not the battery. I get great battery range.
Last night coming home from the casino I under estimated the distance left on the battery to get me home without the benefit of the ICE. With the lights on at night the battery drains much faster than normal.
However, when the battery indicated zero miles left the Fisker still allows you to use the reserve state of charge and you can continue to drive a great distance. I drove at least 8 miles in this state and still had more reserve left according to the indicator on the dash. This was a pleasant surprise.
I have an appointment next Thursday to take my car in for repair. I will make a decision if I’m going to do this. I’m very reluctant because I’ve lost confidence in the dealerships ability to service the vehicle. They sale and service Bentley’s and other exotics. They didn’t have the Fisker franchise long enough and I don’t have the confidence that they can properly service the vehicle.
I asked the service rep what are to other Fisker owners in the area doing and he said they are selling their vehicles. I said, selling them to who, they will still have to have someone to service them.
They made it clear to me that they would see what they can do but will not offer any assurances that they can fix the vehicle or any guarantees on any repairs they make. They really prefer not to service the vehicle but if you drop it off and leave it and don’t bug them they will see what they can do.
I have 4 alternatives I’m considering:
1) Do nothing for the time being and enjoy stealth mode only. It appears from my experience last night I can drive more than 50 actual miles in battery mode alone considering the reserve capacity of the battery.
2) Fly and experience technician in to repair the vehicle. Hey, I may come out cheaper than messing around with the dealer here and I’ll feel more confident in the repair. It is not and intermittent problem as it was before. It almost certain to occur as soon as the ICE comes on or placed in hill mode.
3) Transport the vehicle to an experience technician. Either harleyguy or Lomax and transport it back.
4) Fix it myself. I would need the Fisker’s proprietary code reader instead of the generic reader I have. If it turns out to be the front inverter, which I suspect it is, it doesn’t appear to be an easy job. I was once an auto technician but that was many years ago and I would need a lot of instructions. (I’m a tax accountant, licensed by the U.S Treasury as an Enrolled Agent and would prefer to stay in my lane).
If anyone have any other ideals or know someone in and around the Michigan area that can help offer assistance I would appreciation it. If you are in the Detroit Michigan area and you owned a Fisker you are either not having any problems with your vehicles or are looking for the same solutions I am.
Samuel
Volts and resistance at the front inverter connection are in normal range which indicate the problem may be the front inverter. I’m absolutely sure that it’s not the battery. I get great battery range.
Last night coming home from the casino I under estimated the distance left on the battery to get me home without the benefit of the ICE. With the lights on at night the battery drains much faster than normal.
However, when the battery indicated zero miles left the Fisker still allows you to use the reserve state of charge and you can continue to drive a great distance. I drove at least 8 miles in this state and still had more reserve left according to the indicator on the dash. This was a pleasant surprise.
I have an appointment next Thursday to take my car in for repair. I will make a decision if I’m going to do this. I’m very reluctant because I’ve lost confidence in the dealerships ability to service the vehicle. They sale and service Bentley’s and other exotics. They didn’t have the Fisker franchise long enough and I don’t have the confidence that they can properly service the vehicle.
I asked the service rep what are to other Fisker owners in the area doing and he said they are selling their vehicles. I said, selling them to who, they will still have to have someone to service them.
They made it clear to me that they would see what they can do but will not offer any assurances that they can fix the vehicle or any guarantees on any repairs they make. They really prefer not to service the vehicle but if you drop it off and leave it and don’t bug them they will see what they can do.
I have 4 alternatives I’m considering:
1) Do nothing for the time being and enjoy stealth mode only. It appears from my experience last night I can drive more than 50 actual miles in battery mode alone considering the reserve capacity of the battery.
2) Fly and experience technician in to repair the vehicle. Hey, I may come out cheaper than messing around with the dealer here and I’ll feel more confident in the repair. It is not and intermittent problem as it was before. It almost certain to occur as soon as the ICE comes on or placed in hill mode.
3) Transport the vehicle to an experience technician. Either harleyguy or Lomax and transport it back.
4) Fix it myself. I would need the Fisker’s proprietary code reader instead of the generic reader I have. If it turns out to be the front inverter, which I suspect it is, it doesn’t appear to be an easy job. I was once an auto technician but that was many years ago and I would need a lot of instructions. (I’m a tax accountant, licensed by the U.S Treasury as an Enrolled Agent and would prefer to stay in my lane).
If anyone have any other ideals or know someone in and around the Michigan area that can help offer assistance I would appreciation it. If you are in the Detroit Michigan area and you owned a Fisker you are either not having any problems with your vehicles or are looking for the same solutions I am.
Samuel
Great summary Samuel. If I were faced with your situation, I would fly in Lormax or Harley guy after they confirmed their ability to solve your situation. I would also have them go over your car and address any other issues (e.g.: ICU sealing). I am in Toronto and flew in Lormax last year for a relay problem. The peace of mind of a proper "fix" is well worth the fees involved.
IMHO
IMHO
Ship the car to the Miami Fisker dealer. Harleyguy will fix it properly at a Fisker Authorized service center. The inverter needs to be coded by HQ and only Fisker Authorized dealers can procure the proper parts through the correct channels. Parts that have not been lawfully procured directly from FA may have come from questionable sources. Everything else is a gamble IMO.
Send it to Miami Harleyguy will fix it stop wasting your time. Just not worth it.
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
Sent from AutoGuide.com App
If volts and resistance are in the normal range for the inverter, why would you think it's the inverter?
Smooth is right, a brand new inverter would need to be electronically 'named' by HQ. Dealers can't do it. I can't do it. The naming is so that all the computers know which inverter is which, since they all use the same part number. Once it's been named though, it can be used in any car in that spot. Smooth is incorrect about parts procurement though. Dealers aren't the only ones able to source parts through FA.
With all that said, I have a good Gen-Set inverter in stock. If you want to send the car over to be looked at and for work, I'd be happy to diagnose and even swap in the inverter I have to help determine if that's the problem. I also have a good set of the e-brake parts to fix that problem on the car as well. Whichever route you go with it, I wish you the best.
Smooth is right, a brand new inverter would need to be electronically 'named' by HQ. Dealers can't do it. I can't do it. The naming is so that all the computers know which inverter is which, since they all use the same part number. Once it's been named though, it can be used in any car in that spot. Smooth is incorrect about parts procurement though. Dealers aren't the only ones able to source parts through FA.
With all that said, I have a good Gen-Set inverter in stock. If you want to send the car over to be looked at and for work, I'd be happy to diagnose and even swap in the inverter I have to help determine if that's the problem. I also have a good set of the e-brake parts to fix that problem on the car as well. Whichever route you go with it, I wish you the best.
Lomax
My understanding is there is no way to actually test an inverter in the field. The diagnosis is done by first reading the trouble codes with the proprietary Fisker code reader. If the codes lead you to suspect the inverter is the problem you would then disconnect the harnest at the inverter and meassure voltage and resistance on certain pins at the end of the harnest therefore ruling out other components such as the harnest itself, generator, position sensors, etc. If voltage and resistance is normal at the harnest the process of elimination would lead to the inverter as the problem. Thank you smooth for your excellent tutelage.
I recall from years ago that many electronic components like ECM's could not be tested in the field without very expenses equipment that only manufactures had. We used our experience and tested what we could and eliminated components that lead us to the defective part.
Assuming I followed the correct safety measures first (disconnect HV battery) I'm I correct with the above procedure?
Samuel
My understanding is there is no way to actually test an inverter in the field. The diagnosis is done by first reading the trouble codes with the proprietary Fisker code reader. If the codes lead you to suspect the inverter is the problem you would then disconnect the harnest at the inverter and meassure voltage and resistance on certain pins at the end of the harnest therefore ruling out other components such as the harnest itself, generator, position sensors, etc. If voltage and resistance is normal at the harnest the process of elimination would lead to the inverter as the problem. Thank you smooth for your excellent tutelage.
I recall from years ago that many electronic components like ECM's could not be tested in the field without very expenses equipment that only manufactures had. We used our experience and tested what we could and eliminated components that lead us to the defective part.
Assuming I followed the correct safety measures first (disconnect HV battery) I'm I correct with the above procedure?
Samuel
1 - 20 of 37 Posts
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