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Dodger said:
Thought you guys would get a kick out of this one ;-) Running out of battery??http://www.flickr.com/photos/[email protected]/7999898528/
Look at his speed, 200kph or about 124mph.
 

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here is a couple videos I recorded.. haha

stealth cruising on the freeway..
0-90 stealth mode
0-125 sport mode

http://fiskerpro.com/video/
 

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MyColorIsGreen said:
here is a couple videos I recorded.. haha

stealth cruising on the freeway..
0-90 stealth mode
0-125 sport mode

http://fiskerpro.com/video/
During the Sport mode run, your EV range was only 10 miles which means you were only getting power from the ICE . If you run in Sport mode with your battery more than half charged (26 Miles of range or more) you should get much brisker acceleration because you dan draw power from the battery AND the motor.
 

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Fabulist said:
MyColorIsGreen said:
here is a couple videos I recorded.. haha

stealth cruising on the freeway..
0-90 stealth mode
0-125 sport mode

http://fiskerpro.com/video/
During the Sport mode run, your EV range was only 10 miles which means you were only getting power from the ICE . If you run in Sport mode with your battery more than half charged (26 Miles of range or more) you should get much brisker acceleration because you dan draw power from the battery AND the motor.
Fab, really? I didn't know that. Means Sportmode above 26miles left on battery you get the most power. Below 26 miles it holds the range but sacrifice the power. Correct?
 

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michaelCA said:
Fabulist said:
MyColorIsGreen said:
here is a couple videos I recorded.. haha

stealth cruising on the freeway..
0-90 stealth mode
0-125 sport mode

http://fiskerpro.com/video/
During the Sport mode run, your EV range was only 10 miles which means you were only getting power from the ICE . If you run in Sport mode with your battery more than half charged (26 Miles of range or more) you should get much brisker acceleration because you dan draw power from the battery AND the motor.
Fab, really? I didn't know that. Means Sportmode above 26miles left on battery you get the most power. Below 26 miles it holds the range but sacrifice the power. Correct?
Correct. Of course I am not suggesting you do anything dangerous or illegal, but that's how the power management works.
 

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it still performs pretty well below 26miles.. At full acceleration I am still pulling 180kw max from battery and the generator.

I have run the battery down pretty low < 5% and the car is still running fine.

The car performs better with full battery but it still performs pretty well with a low battery.. I notice that when the battery reaches 0 miles or 20% the car suffers more.. 110mph is pretty much the max in that case... it also takes longer to get there.
 

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michaelCA said:
Fab, really? I didn't know that. Means Sportmode above 26miles left on battery you get the most power. Below 26 miles it holds the range but sacrifice the power. Correct?
Huh. In that case, a "Sport+" mode (that brings the charge back up so that you get full power again) is even more important!

I've floored the accelerator in sport with <26 miles on the battery and the biggest draw I saw was close to 200 kW. I haven't done the same test with >26 miles.

Assuming all this is accurate, I'd suggest that Sport+ mode work like this:

System>Settings>Sport+ should exist and have two values: "min miles" and "max miles". For simplicity in the rest of the text, assume they're set at (say) 15 and 35 by default, but the only limit is that min <= max (and maybe min > 5 or some such, and of course max <= 50).

Then, whenever you're in Sport+, the operation should work this way:
  • If miles-remaining < max, gasoline engine will be run at higher RPM than "normal" (i.e., Sport) to increase the miles-remaining number over time.
  • If miles-remaining >= min but < max, acceleration will be somewhat limited, with the limit being "a little bit" when very close to max, but "a lot" when close to min, similar to when not in Sport+ and miles-remaining < 26.
  • If miles-remaining < min, acceleration will be limited the same way as when in regular Sport and miles-remaining is "low".

Given the defaults (of 15 and 35), the difference between "Sport" and "Sport+" is that Sport+ will be willing to accelerate more even when below 26 miles of battery—you'll have to get down to 15 to drop down to "regular Sport equivalent"—and also that Sport+ will bring the charge back up to the point where you'll get 9 miles of full power in regular Sport mode. In Sport+ you'll actually have less power than "regular Sport" in that 26-to-35 range, because when you're below 35, some of the engine power will be dedicated to pushing the range number back up. (However, as soon as you reach 35 again, you'll be at "max power available", and as long as you don't keep the pedal floored continuously, you'll tend to hang out at 35 miles remaining, which means you'll have "max power available" most of the time.)

This is all a little complicated underneath, but it's easy to explain to people new to driving the Karma: "In Stealth the car tries to be as quiet as possible, in Sport it tries to be as powerful as possible while being eco-friendly, and in Sport+ it uses even more gasoline than in Sport so as to be more ready to have full power ready for you at all times."

(Also, if the default battery-range values for min and max in Sport+ were, say, 15 and 26 miles, it might be less confusing.)
 

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Also sport+ should remove the inverter step down so it can release full power to the traction motors.

the inverters are capable of pushing 300kw to the traction motors.. 150 from generator and 150 from batteries.. this would make the car perform.[hr]
Hey Dodger... the only thing scary on your photo is the tire pressure monitor warning light while exceeding 120mph....

I'll drive the car all day at 125mph but only when I have 4 good tires :)
 

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MyColorIsGreen said:
Hey Dodger... the only thing scary on your photo is the tire pressure monitor warning light while exceeding 120mph....
I thought the hand held camera at 125 MPH was also a bit alarming. May I suggest a fixed mount or something like this:

 

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In either mode, I want the same amount of power (for that mode) available for passing. I certainly don't want variable acceleration with an 18 wheeler coming the other way. Knowing is better than guessing. Passing in Stealth is fine, with Sport available for unexpected need.
 

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Fabulist said:
MyColorIsGreen said:
Hey Dodger... the only thing scary on your photo is the tire pressure monitor warning light while exceeding 120mph....
I thought the hand held camera at 125 MPH was also a bit alarming. May I suggest a fixed mount or something like this:
I already made a camera mount that clips onto the seat headrest button.. I'll record a better video someday soon.
although 125mph in a 45mph zone was probably not good either way you look at it. :)

*professional driver, closed course.
haha
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Reason for posting was that the energy indicator for the battery level turned red i.e. even though I still had gas the car apparently can "run out" of energy. BTW when I slowed down a bit it recharged till it became white again.
@My colorisgreen,
-tire pressure warning is because valve sensor couldn't be loaded into software when wheel was changed
-no closed course, regular travel in Germany ;-)
 

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I guess the best part is we all have check engine lights illuminated... haha

even when the ICE is running the car still robs from the battery..
When you get below 10% the car starts beeping at you constantly.. If I am bored I will take the car out and record it... :)
 
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