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I was wondering if there is any harm to the engine if you drive mostly on fuel without charging the high voltage battery? It seems that one of the cells or modules in my battery is not holding charge properly so sometimes it drops the charge but the car drives fine on fuel alone.

Thank you.
 

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I'd say there was no problem driving with zero EV range left. We've all done it and the car is designed to do it.

You're also in good company if your indicated range suddenly drops to zero because of a dodgy battery module. Many of us have been there (myself included).

Simon
 

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Plug in or the batteries will go out of balance. After you charge 100% there is a resistive battery balancing program that runs which makes sure all modules are within spec. You will for sure have battery issues if you do not plug it in.
 

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Plug in or the batteries will go out of balance. After you charge 100% there is a resistive battery balancing program that runs which makes sure all modules are within spec. You will for sure have battery issues if you do not plug it in.
How long does the balancing take?

I drive and charge my car very regularly and had no issues with the battery yet. But now my contactors are changed I try to use them less by unplugging the car when it has reached a full charged, because I have heard them clicking some time during the day when plugged in and being full charged for some time at that time. I am on 525, because 535 makes more use of the contactors right?
 

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How long does the balancing take?

I drive and charge my car very regularly and had no issues with the battery yet. But now my contactors are changed I try to use them less by unplugging the car when it has reached a full charged, because I have heard them clicking some time during the day when plugged in and being full charged for some time at that time. I am on 525, because 535 makes more use of the contactors right?



I believe there was 520 and 530/535


Both 530 and 535 were disasters... 530 inadvertently removed battery balancing 535 added it back in. Both actuate the contactors to charge the 12v battery via APM. It is a very slop-shoddy algorithm in that it will wear out the contactors in a couple years- to save a 200 dollar 12v, relatively easily accessible, battery- which can be maintained via a 20 dollar tender or by parking the car outside.


Also looking at the spec for the contactors in the EDM

located here on page 2

http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentD...ntxt=1618002-7


It looks like the contactors are rated for 1-10,000 cycles at 400V dc

So say the contactors close for the battery tender feature once every hour that is 8760 times in a year (not taking into consideration turning off/on the car etc). Pretty close to the life-cycle spec of that particular contactor. I am not sure how often it checks the 12v battery.




Yea, if you are on 535 would recommend downgrading to 520, before you have to drop your pack and replace contactors.


If you do not charge the battery for weeks at a time, it is possible the cells deviation will be out of balance and the resistive BMS will not be able to bring it within spec- which means the pack has to be dropped again. Would recommend charging at least once a week. Once the pack goes out of balance you will have far more issues. In order to meet the contactor life specification of 10,000 cycles (assuming not a weld failure) that is 27 years if you charge once every day. 10,000/365= 27.3 years. There is no danger in charging every day.
 

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When the battery contactor is replaced, does the car start operating normally or does it need to be reprogrammed?
 

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I believe there was 520 and 530/535


Both 530 and 535 were disasters... 530 inadvertently removed battery balancing 535 added it back in. Both actuate the contactors to charge the 12v battery via APM. It is a very slop-shoddy algorithm in that it will wear out the contactors in a couple years- to save a 200 dollar 12v, relatively easily accessible, battery- which can be maintained via a 20 dollar tender or by parking the car outside.


Also looking at the spec for the contactors in the EDM

located here on page 2

http://www.te.com/commerce/DocumentD...ntxt=1618002-7


It looks like the contactors are rated for 1-10,000 cycles at 400V dc

So say the contactors close for the battery tender feature once every hour that is 8760 times in a year (not taking into consideration turning off/on the car etc). Pretty close to the life-cycle spec of that particular contactor. I am not sure how often it checks the 12v battery.




Yea, if you are on 535 would recommend downgrading to 520, before you have to drop your pack and replace contactors.


If you do not charge the battery for weeks at a time, it is possible the cells deviation will be out of balance and the resistive BMS will not be able to bring it within spec- which means the pack has to be dropped again. Would recommend charging at least once a week. Once the pack goes out of balance you will have far more issues. In order to meet the contactor life specification of 10,000 cycles (assuming not a weld failure) that is 27 years if you charge once every day. 10,000/365= 27.3 years. There is no danger in charging every day.
Thanks, I am on 520. After the charging has completed for some time, sometimes, when I am by coincidence near the car, I hear a clicking, so maybe on the 520 software this is done once a day to check the SOC? That's why I unplug the car now after charging to extend the life of the contactors.

By the way. How is it going with the 60 kWh battery pack? I was wondering if it can be read for errors and so on by the Fisker software or another software is needed? Is another OBCM needed or can it be charged with the Original OBCM (although it charges slow)?
 

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Thanks, I am on 520. After the charging has completed for some time, sometimes, when I am by coincidence near the car, I hear a clicking, so maybe on the 520 software this is done once a day to check the SOC? That's why I unplug the car now after charging to extend the life of the contactors.

By the way. How is it going with the 60 kWh battery pack? I was wondering if it can be read for errors and so on by the Fisker software or another software is needed? Is another OBCM needed or can it be charged with the Original OBCM (although it charges slow)?



The clicking could be the battery balancing. Do you see activity on the EVSE? Would not recommend unplugging the car because after the vehicle is charged; is when the battery balances itself. That is probably why you hear the click. This can last several hours or days even- depending on how out of balance the pack is.


We are doing 90kWh packs now but have limited supply. Most have been spoken for. We cannot ship to Europe.



You can use the existing OBCM, or parallel two together or use the 10kw OBCM that we also provide as an option to the pack.
 

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The clicking could be the battery balancing. Do you see activity on the EVSE? Would not recommend unplugging the car because after the vehicle is charged; is when the battery balances itself. That is probably why you hear the click. This can last several hours or days even- depending on how out of balance the pack is.


We are doing 90kWh packs now but have limited supply. Most have been spoken for. We cannot ship to Europe.



You can use the existing OBCM, or parallel two together or use the 10kw OBCM that we also provide as an option to the pack.
you working with Joe at all for distribution? How many of us in the US will be able to get one?
 

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you working with Joe at all for distribution? How many of us in the US will be able to get one?
Yep working with Joe, just need some packs to send his way. Supply chain has been disrupted pretty significantly due to everything that is happening. Plan is to get a few packs out to him on the East Coast, once we can secure enough supply.
 

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Yep working with Joe, just need some packs to send his way. Supply chain has been disrupted pretty significantly due to everything that is happening. Plan is to get a few packs out to him on the East Coast, once we can secure enough supply.
thx -- i'll reach out.
 
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