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06-27-2018, 04:48 PM
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#81 (permalink)
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FYI - when you hit 200km/h (125mph) on the autobahn the A/C goes crazy and cools down dramatically - like it would want it to cool you down since you're driving too fast
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06-27-2018, 05:01 PM
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#82 (permalink)
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Christoph
Hi rosssr,
with the larger fuse, aren't you worried about the wiring, which is not made for such high currents ,sometimes?
I have TOM20 and 630A, too but I am worried to kick down on a hill for example. Nevertheless I do feel the additional power in stealth. Not alot but there is something. Just today a Mustang wanted to make noise infront of me and kicked down at a light. I was behind him and had to break since his acceleration wasn't as quick as mine - probably a bad driver  but ... how, it's an electric motor...
Best
Christoph
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according to what i have read on here, the wiring is up to the task, and the fuse was the weak link.
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06-27-2018, 11:53 PM
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#83 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosssr
according to what i have read on here, the wiring is up to the task, and the fuse was the weak link.
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The best explanation was posted by @ PowerSource in this post: https://www.fiskerbuzz.com/forums/13...tml#post297842
__________________
-- Fab.
Original owner of 2012 Eco Sport Black (Eclipse) with Monsoon Tritone Interior. VIN: -0641
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06-28-2018, 12:13 AM
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#84 (permalink)
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fabulist
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which i have previously read, and why i got the higher rated fuse...
will get the tom in the next 6 months or so.
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06-28-2018, 02:05 PM
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#85 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosssr
which i have previously read, and why i got the higher rated fuse...
will get the tom in the next 6 months or so.
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From the beginning, the suspicion was that the inverter limits were too conservative and that the car had some potential performance that could be unlocked with a software change. Another feature that was originally in the test drive cars, but disappeared in the production cars was charging on the move.
TOM does both. Relaxes the limitis to (still safe) levels and restores the charging on the move capability and also adds stationary charging capability. Upgrading the MSD fuse addresses the next weak link in the chain to allow taking full advantage of the extra power.
And whether you upgrade your fuse or not, it’s a good idea to carry a spare MSD to avoid the possibility of getting stranded because of a blown fuse due to trying to go up a steep incline or heavy acceleration.
__________________
-- Fab.
Original owner of 2012 Eco Sport Black (Eclipse) with Monsoon Tritone Interior. VIN: -0641
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01-25-2019, 05:05 PM
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#86 (permalink)
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Senior Member
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWkarma
So despite being away for about a month, I've managed to rack up another 3000 miles, this time relying on the EV mode to extend the range, per @ Fabulist suggestion. I tried using the Stealth mode driving to work, then as my miles ran low I switched over to the EV mode. I also tried using EV on the back roads and burning up my Stealth miles in town. There seemed to be no detectable variation in gas mileage between either technique. Over all, I was able to increase my average gas mileage over the 3k miles to 46 mpg. Very respectable in my eyes, as I'm not one to dawdle and much better than without the TOM unit.
The most significant difference I noticed with using the EV mode is how much smoother the drive was vs. the ER mode. The engine was not nearly as noticeable and seemed to be more in tune with the type of driving I was doing. Regardless of the economy, I would choose the EV mode as my favorite, just for this smoothness during extended ranges. I especially like the way that EV mode doesn't use the ICE at super low speeds, thereby avoiding the embarrassing 4cyl rattle at stop lights. Having gotten used to the EV mode, I was never even tempted to use the ER mode, although it's still a nice feature to have available.
As a side note, I have well over 10k miles since upgrading to the TOM unit now, without a single issue.
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Just took possession of my car after the Tom installation!
I have only driven it a few miles around the dealership and have been playing around with the modes.
Not sure I have figured all the optimum methods for me.
BUT I agree that so far the EV mode seems best.
Am I understanding correctly that if you are in EV mode and you slow way down like 20mph that it just goes into stealth?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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01-25-2019, 05:28 PM
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#87 (permalink)
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When driving at low speeds in EV, my TOM unit turns off the ICE but stays in EV so that it just runs on the battery, then when back on the open road it turns the ICE back on to maintain the approximate existing battery charge level. Mine does not switch to stealth mode unless I tell it to.
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01-26-2019, 01:01 AM
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#88 (permalink)
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Super Moderator
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PNWkarma
When driving at low speeds in EV, my TOM unit turns off the ICE but stays in EV so that it just runs on the battery, then when back on the open road it turns the ICE back on to maintain the approximate existing battery charge level. Mine does not switch to stealth mode unless I tell it to.
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I have been driving with my TOM for almost two years now, and I use EV mode most of the time. I only switch to ER mode when I am in very slow traffic or when the car is stopped for stationary charging.
TOM does not change driving modes, only you can do that. TOM adjusts the flow of electrons in real time between the battery, generator, and the motors. In my experience, in EV mode, the ICE is running most of the time, either backfilling the battery with power used for moving the car, or charging the battery when you don’t need a lot of power for moving.
If I want to drive solely on battery power, for example on the local streets, I use classic Stealth mode. EV is much more useful when you are driving longer distances or at higher highway speeds.
For maximum performance, I make sure the battery is charged above 50% (26 Miles or higher indicated), and use classic Sport mode. ER mode is really useful for recharging the battery for max performance away from a charging station.
EV mode, IMHO, is the best mode for cruising at steady highway speeds (ideally on cruise control). It’s the best blend of performance and charging.
Hope this is helpfu.
__________________
-- Fab.
Original owner of 2012 Eco Sport Black (Eclipse) with Monsoon Tritone Interior. VIN: -0641
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01-27-2019, 03:48 PM
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#89 (permalink)
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Senior Member
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this is all helpful.
more questions tho.
i drove from fort worth to houston yesterday and had some drama that i have already informed andrew and luc about.
but i also want to make sure i know what to expect from a properly working car with tom20 installed.
if you go into EV mode, does it keep the registered battery range at that moment? ie if you click on EV at 40 miles of range, does it hold that regardless of what else happens to forward speed, throttle level, hill 2 engagement etc ? what do you, or should you, notice on the energy flow display when all this is happening?
if you go into ER mode, does it increase battery range from whatever the level is, all the way to 45? again, does it manage to do this regardless of other things going on like high speed driving, throttle level, hill 2, etc? and at what rate have you seen the battery range being increased? my observation so far is that it comes back at about 15-18kw, no higher than that. what should i be seeing in the energy flow screen?
if you are going down the highway at 80mph, and then come to a stop/creeping along in dense traffic, can you keep the ER mode engaged without overheating? or do you then have to switch to Stealth etc to keep the engine temp in check?
has anybody experienced any erratic speedo and odometer behavior after installing the tom20 unit?
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01-29-2019, 02:47 PM
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#90 (permalink)
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Liked, but not well liked
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rosssr
this is all helpful.
more questions tho.
i drove from fort worth to houston yesterday and had some drama that i have already informed andrew and luc about.
but i also want to make sure i know what to expect from a properly working car with tom20 installed.
if you go into EV mode, does it keep the registered battery range at that moment? ie if you click on EV at 40 miles of range, does it hold that regardless of what else happens to forward speed, throttle level, hill 2 engagement etc ? what do you, or should you, notice on the energy flow display when all this is happening?
if you go into ER mode, does it increase battery range from whatever the level is, all the way to 45? again, does it manage to do this regardless of other things going on like high speed driving, throttle level, hill 2, etc? and at what rate have you seen the battery range being increased? my observation so far is that it comes back at about 15-18kw, no higher than that. what should i be seeing in the energy flow screen?
if you are going down the highway at 80mph, and then come to a stop/creeping along in dense traffic, can you keep the ER mode engaged without overheating? or do you then have to switch to Stealth etc to keep the engine temp in check?
has anybody experienced any erratic speedo and odometer behavior after installing the tom20 unit?
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You are running BL535 with a TOM20 unit. Looks like Andrew at Frank Kent did not downgrade you to the 520 software.
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