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Old 08-20-2019, 06:11 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Default Hard Reset has one more step

Did you pull the park brake while holding the brake pedal down? I had not done this crucial step in the process & like yourself... stuck in N & P. Good luck. Also, if you post your phone number, i'dve been happy to call or text. Marc
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Old 08-20-2019, 07:10 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Hi Whatsafisker,


"car will still not turn on and car will not charge, attempted to put the charger on the car it did the click, then immediately clicked offer and afterwards kept doing a strange click on and off until the charger was pulled out, now when the charger is plugged in I get no sound, no click, no charge"

I had this same issue about a month ago. Turns out it was a bad "Contactor-Small", PN C13111810110. They had to remove the high voltage battery pack from the car to replace the damaged "contactor".

Best of luck,
Cheers, VID
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:21 PM   #13 (permalink)
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You need a new coupler
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Old 08-20-2019, 08:32 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Check you dc-dc charger. I’ve heard those clicking sounds while trying to charge.
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Old 08-23-2019, 01:47 AM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatsafisker View Post
Hard reset is pulling black cable and letting sit for 5-10 mins correct?
I am told after turning of the car first wait until the car goes asleep. When after around some minutes the lights of PRND buttons go out then pull the black cable all the way out and wait at least 10 minutes. After that pull the plug back all the way in. The car resets itself. Most of the time you need to calibrate the parking brake. After that the car should be ready to drive.


My car sometimes has a flashing ready error and after a hard reset until now it always drives again and therefore in the end is a reliable car (but always the feeling of keeping fingers crossed…). Sometimes my car has a reduced perfomance error, always in Stealth mode with the ICE on, never in Sport mode and very rearly in Stealth mode pure EV mode. It Always happens during decelleration in Hill 2 mode around 50 km/h before a roundabout for example. After a soft reset the error is gone. When this happens regurly then probably the coupler is realy at it end of its life.


Is your car alive again?

Last edited by B. Surm; 08-23-2019 at 01:50 AM.
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Old 08-23-2019, 07:42 AM   #16 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by B. Surm View Post
I am told after turning of the car first wait until the car goes asleep. When after around some minutes the lights of PRND buttons go out then pull the black cable all the way out and wait at least 10 minutes. After that pull the plug back all the way in. The car resets itself. Most of the time you need to calibrate the parking brake. After that the car should be ready to drive.


My car sometimes has a flashing ready error and after a hard reset until now it always drives again and therefore in the end is a reliable car (but always the feeling of keeping fingers crossed…). Sometimes my car has a reduced perfomance error, always in Stealth mode with the ICE on, never in Sport mode and very rearly in Stealth mode pure EV mode. It Always happens during decelleration in Hill 2 mode around 50 km/h before a roundabout for example. After a soft reset the error is gone. When this happens regurly then probably the coupler is realy at it end of its life.


Is your car alive again?
You need to get your cars software updated if the gear indicator takes a few minutes your on 510 on 520 the light will go out in 45 seconds. Newer software will take care of a lot of your concerns
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Old 08-24-2019, 12:26 AM   #17 (permalink)
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I spoke with @Whatsafisker on the phone. Sounds like a sheared coupler to me. Should be on the way up here soon...
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Old 08-29-2019, 02:31 PM   #18 (permalink)
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You need to get your cars software updated if the gear indicator takes a few minutes your on 510 on 520 the light will go out in 45 seconds. Newer software will take care of a lot of your concerns
Thanks. I believe the car has 520. On the forum there some discussion what te most stable software is, some say 520, others 535...
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Old 04-23-2020, 07:52 PM   #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatsafisker View Post
Hard reset is pulling black cable and letting sit for 5-10 mins correct?
Hey man; I know it has been more than a year, but I was wondering how did you resolve it?

Mine does the same, flashing ready, the hard reset does not help, I can have it in P or N only, and there's not sound coming from the speakers outside the car

Thanks in advance,


Cristiano
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Old 04-29-2020, 12:30 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I've had 2 Karma's now that have done it from time to time. Hopefully it's nothing serious but just letting the car turn off until the park/drive/nuetral light go out (several minutes) can do the trick and if not, unplugging the main wire harness under the hood on the passenger side and plugging it back in will hopefully resolve it. If that doesn't work, it may be the main high voltage fuse under the rear driver's seat. I bought several of these fuses as spares and made the mistake of towing the car to the closest Karma store (for me over 100 miles) and paying full retail for the repair and being without my car for over a week to have them do this 5 minute job. So if neither solution works, to this job, unplug that same harness, and this very important as this is VERY high voltage fuse and not recommended to yourself unless you use pre-cautions. Remove the rear drivers seat, which is very easy to do. You may need to unplug the seat heating wiring harness to get some room to remove the fuse, which is under the seat portion of the rear seat. It's a little tricky to unclip the fuse harness but once unclipped, slide out the fuse and have it tested. If bad than, you need to search for the part on eBay or at your local auto parts store as this part is quite common in electric cars. It's a Manual Battery Disconnect Bussmann 350 Amp Fuse and they are about $50 on eBay. Replace fuse and re-connect the wiring harness under the hood and try to start the car again. If it's still flashing ready, that's not good. This could be a number of issues. For me, I towed my car to naples, a new dealership to Karma, and they told me I had to replace my main battery at a cost of over $20,000 because I had a 0 state of health. I didn't agree with this diag so I towed it to west palm lambo who has been servicing my car since Tampa closed and they gave me the same diag. I made some calls and did some research and thanks to the advise Fisker Philly, he advised swapping the EDM and BECM within the battery. This is a major job as the battery has to be pulled and taken apart but well worth the $4,800 cost as my car has been running perfect ever since with a 65% state of health now. Hope this helps
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