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Old 06-06-2019, 06:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default New unknown problem

Hi Fisker Community,
Been enjoying the car for the last few weeks but now I have a new unknown problem. Hoping someone here can help.
Ive got 3 codes that popped up: P0A7B, P1C03 and P1200
P0A7B seems to be a general code that the car is requesting to show the check engine light (from my search here)
P1C03 is a battery balance issue? not sure what that is
P1200 got me stumped...exhaust issue?

Car seems to drive fine and charges fine, all the way up to 50 and down to 0 as normal, no massive drops in battery range. Appreciate your insight. Thanks
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Old 06-07-2019, 03:10 AM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by morphius88 View Post
Hi Fisker Community,
Been enjoying the car for the last few weeks but now I have a new unknown problem. Hoping someone here can help.
Ive got 3 codes that popped up: P0A7B, P1C03 and P1200
P0A7B seems to be a general code that the car is requesting to show the check engine light (from my search here)
P1C03 is a battery balance issue? not sure what that is
P1200 got me stumped...exhaust issue?

Car seems to drive fine and charges fine, all the way up to 50 and down to 0 as normal, no massive drops in battery range. Appreciate your insight. Thanks
Cod P0A7B is the control unit for the HV-battery requesting MIL due to a problem within the HV-battery pack itself. The actual problem (P1C03) is battery module 14 (bottom front module in HV-battery pack). It could very well be the battery pack being out of balance and I wouldn't worry too much at vis time especially sins it is the first time and there is no massive drop in battery range.

Clear the fault codes and cycle the battery pack a few times (drive down to cero and recharge to full). If the fault cod P1C03 persists you clearly have a weak module (no. 14) in your HV battery back.
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Old 06-07-2019, 08:55 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by SirCastic View Post
Cod P0A7B is the control unit for the HV-battery requesting MIL due to a problem within the HV-battery pack itself. The actual problem (P1C03) is battery module 14 (bottom front module in HV-battery pack). It could very well be the battery pack being out of balance and I wouldn't worry too much at vis time especially sins it is the first time and there is no massive drop in battery range.

Clear the fault codes and cycle the battery pack a few times (drive down to cero and recharge to full). If the fault cod P1C03 persists you clearly have a weak module (no. 14) in your HV battery back.
I am pretty sure this happened after I got an aftermarket charger to replace the one that came with the car. But its been charging perfectly fine as far as I know. I will try to clear codes and do a few charge cycles.
Any clue on P1200?
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Old 06-08-2019, 12:25 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by morphius88 View Post
I am pretty sure this happened after I got an aftermarket charger to replace the one that came with the car. But its been charging perfectly fine as far as I know. I will try to clear codes and do a few charge cycles.
Any clue on P1200?
P1200 check engine is your oxygen sensor / fuel injector / exhaust system...
However, your P1200 DTCs may be triggered by faults earlier down the line.
I would check faults like, dirty air filter, leaking / cracked muffler / etc.

Clear the codes and perform a hard reset… check whether the P1200 problem persists…
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Old 06-09-2019, 06:58 PM   #5 (permalink)
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I purchased a Karma yesterday for the wife It is her dream car. Today however I am getting a service brake message then a service park brake message and the car will not drive. I also got a 12 volt critically low message a time or two. I tried a hard reset of the main cable on the passenger side. Nothing. I am charging the 12 volt battery now. I charged the 12 volt battery. The ready light is flashing and the fuel and battery lights are red. It appears like every light in the cluster is on. The car appears like it will run but the PNDR will not illuminate. I am a transmission tech it’s what I do for a living. This has me blasted. I have a snap on scan tool I will bring home tomorrow and see what I can get out of it. Any help or guidance would be appreciated. Thank you. It’s a 2012 signature edition number 4 of 100. Vin number YH4K10BA6CA000004.

Last edited by LeeBaxter12!; 06-09-2019 at 07:04 PM. Reason: Add more information.
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Old 06-09-2019, 09:26 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Lee: Thanks for the info on FK Signature Edition #4 . This car was originally owned by Al Gore, former VP of USA. On 8/18/18 it was listed for sale by CDJR dealership of Columbia Tenn (Angela Usher). Did you purchase it from them?
I own FK SE Car #13 , and I am doing research on the history of all 100 Signature Edition Cars.
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Old 06-18-2019, 07:02 PM   #7 (permalink)
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The P1200 is a exhaust leak issue. Possible you have an old exhaust center muffled that is cracked and gets false air in before the oxygen sensor after the cat.


Quote:
Originally Posted by morphius88 View Post
Hi Fisker Community,
Been enjoying the car for the last few weeks but now I have a new unknown problem. Hoping someone here can help.
Ive got 3 codes that popped up: P0A7B, P1C03 and P1200
P0A7B seems to be a general code that the car is requesting to show the check engine light (from my search here)
P1C03 is a battery balance issue? not sure what that is
P1200 got me stumped...exhaust issue?

Car seems to drive fine and charges fine, all the way up to 50 and down to 0 as normal, no massive drops in battery range. Appreciate your insight. Thanks
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Old 09-20-2019, 06:29 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by alexpop View Post
The P1200 is a exhaust leak issue. Possible you have an old exhaust center muffled that is cracked and gets false air in before the oxygen sensor after the cat.
Hey Alex,
It was indeed that. I had it welded and cleared the code. 200 miles later its still off but I was wondering if you or anyone knows how many miles I need to drive to cycle the monitors from last DTC reset? My OBDII Reader shows O2 Sensor and O2 Sensor heater are still showing "not passed". I cant pass inspection until at least 7 of 8 monitors pass. I am at 6 of 8 currently because of those 2.

No codes so O2 sensor probably still good?

Thank you for the suggestion to look for the cracked muffler. I appreciate it.
Thanks to @SirCastic as well!
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Old 09-25-2019, 05:25 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Update:

Cant edit my previous reply on 9/20, but I have put on another 200 miles and still O2 sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are not passing and no codes pop up either.
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Old 09-26-2019, 06:50 AM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by morphius88 View Post
Update:

Cant edit my previous reply on 9/20, but I have put on another 200 miles and still O2 sensor and O2 Sensor Heater are not passing and no codes pop up either.
Try this, Stole from another post.

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Originally Posted by FiskerPhilly View Post
Ok. Time for some clarification. Your car didn't technically "fail". It is deemed "not ready" for the O2 sensor monitors. And you can drive the car for 6 months and it still wont be ready. Your car has an ECM/HCU software mismatch. One if those two modules is at baseline 535 and the other is at 520. Reflash the HCU and ECM to the same baseline. Drive 2 drive cycles STARTING FROM COLD. A drive cycle with a warm engine will not run the 02 and Catalyst monitors. After the SW is fixed, Start from cold and run in sport mode on the highway maybe a 10 minute drive without AC if possible. Then let it cool COMPLETELY. Then repeat. DONE. Guaranteed. Trust me we chased out tail for weeks with this problem on one of my customers cars. I've fixed at least a dozen around the country with same issue.
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Originally Posted by Patrizio33 View Post
Every Fisker owner should have an OBD 11 code reader. You can go to Amazon and buy one very inexpensively (Autel al319 OBD2 code scanner). It hooks up to the OBD 11 access port under the dash near the driver’s left knee. You WILL have a check engine light at some point. When you do you will be able to read a code and at the very least be able to give valuable information to your service center. Once you perform a hard reset to get your car back on the road that information will be gone. After clearing your check engine light or disconnecting the 12v battery the Karma engine management system will run a series of checks to make sure the emission system is functioning properly. There are three main monitors that need to be cleared, the Catalyst, the Oxygen Sensor and the Evaporative System. The car will clear the monitors after going through a number of varying drive cycles. It can take a very long time for this to happen randomly. I have had the best luck using the following system:

-> Hook up your OBD II reader under the dash and scroll to monitor checks, I/M.
-> Leave it hooked up while you are taking the car through the drive cycles so you can tell when the monitors are cleared.
-> All driving should be done in Sport mode.
-> It is critical that the car have between a quarter and three quarter tank of gas.
-> Warm up the engine until it shuts off at a stop. Turn the car off and let it go to sleep.
-> Start the car and drive continuously between 55 and 60 mph avoiding hills where possible. The Catalyst and Oxygen Sensor monitors should clear. It may take up to two or three of these drive cycles.
-> Once they have cleared take the car home and park it over night. In the morning perform the same drive cycle. The Evaporative monitor usually clears on one drive. If not, do it again.

In California most of our Karmas are due for their first smog checks this year. At some point you will need to use this. If you have questions feel free to pm me or call the shop.
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