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Old 12-11-2016, 01:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Default Air Filter Box Removal Help

Can someone please post some instructions on how to replace the air filter?

I've searched the forum, but, surprisingly, there were no related posts.

I removed the 10mm nut on the driver and passenger sides of the air filter box and removed the inlet hose where the MAF sensor attaches...the box seems loose, but I cannot seem to wiggle it out from the top.

Is there a third bolt I am missing, or does the bumper need to be removed?

Thanks in advance for any/all help.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:17 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Need4Speed View Post
Can someone please post some instructions on how to replace the air filter?

I've searched the forum, but, surprisingly, there were no related posts.

I removed the 10mm nut on the driver and passenger sides of the air filter box and removed the inlet hose where the MAF sensor attaches...the box seems loose, but I cannot seem to wiggle it out from the top.

Is there a third bolt I am missing, or does the bumper need to be removed?

Thanks in advance for any/all help.
I have done it! It's a PAIN, pain, big pain, oh the nightmares. Seriously, you have 2 ways to do it the LONG way and the pain in the butt way.

Long way remove the front fascia, no more needs to be said.

The pain in the butt way, which I did. Unscrew all the fascia screws or pop rivets on the engine bay top. Once you do that I have to go buy a socket wrench screw driver type tool so I could get a screw driver or Torque bit (forget which) under the fascia without removing it.
Tool I bought

Then once you have those bolts removed under the fascia get ready to get your hands and forearms rubbed up. You can pull the filter out by bending it and using elbow grease. It's not easy, but get a flash light or head flash light bandana and you'll see the screws under the fascia.

Good luck.
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Old 12-11-2016, 02:20 PM   #3 (permalink)
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You want the whole plastic container out? I was thinking filter, prob have to remove fascia to get to a bolt or jack the car up and get under it to see it you can see a bolt you can reach from the bottom.
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Old 12-12-2016, 03:34 AM   #4 (permalink)
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After trying using a "skew-driver" offset tool that will allow to remove all the screws from the housing and loosing some skin on my knuckles, I removed the front Fascia. Actually not that bad. A few bolts and it is off in 15 mins. (on top, underneath the front, inside the wheel well -- the fascia unsnaps on each side just below the amber guide lights. If I recall, there are screws just below the guide lights that have to be removed. The fascia is a little awkward to handle, so someone to help is recommended. Make sure you have enough space in front and to the side to pull it forward. There is a connector for the guide lights -- don't forget to reconnect before screwing back on.

The offset screw driver is avail at Home Depot... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...2100/100097677
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Old 12-14-2016, 12:19 AM   #5 (permalink)
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There's no mention of any engine air filter in the 144-page "Fisker Karma Owner's Handbook."

There is some discussion of the cabin air filter, which can easily be cleaned or changed. It's located in a small black box near the firewall. The manual says it should be replaced every 20,000 miles.

Many of us do most of our driving on the battery so is that engine air filter really a maintenance item we need to be concerned about?
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Old 12-14-2016, 02:31 PM   #6 (permalink)
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After trying using a "skew-driver" offset tool that will allow to remove all the screws from the housing and loosing some skin on my knuckles, I removed the front Fascia. Actually not that bad. A few bolts and it is off in 15 mins. (on top, underneath the front, inside the wheel well -- the fascia unsnaps on each side just below the amber guide lights. If I recall, there are screws just below the guide lights that have to be removed. The fascia is a little awkward to handle, so someone to help is recommended. Make sure you have enough space in front and to the side to pull it forward. There is a connector for the guide lights -- don't forget to reconnect before screwing back on.

The offset screw driver is avail at Home Depot... http://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee...2100/100097677
I think I found the easiest way to accomplish this: I took my car in for the annual service at Pat's Garage in San Francisco, and they did it for me as part of the service. Was pretty easy really, no skinned knuckles or damaged facia. Highly recommend this approach.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:33 PM   #7 (permalink)
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There's no mention of any engine air filter in the 144-page "Fisker Karma Owner's Handbook."

There is some discussion of the cabin air filter, which can easily be cleaned or changed. It's located in a small black box near the firewall. The manual says it should be replaced every 20,000 miles.

Many of us do most of our driving on the battery so is that engine air filter really a maintenance item we need to be concerned about?
I have 40K miles on my Karma, and changed the engine Air Filter a 30K. I assume 50 ICE usage, and therefore wanted to change the filter. The Cabin Filter near the fire wall is a custom Fisker Part. The ICE Air Filter is located in the front of the engine compartment. It is not mentioned in the Owners Manual. However, changing the filter is necessary as with any ICE. Even if one drive on Battery 90% of the time the Oil and Filter still need to be changed since the Oil will break down with time. So I would recommend maintenance on the ICE at regular intervals.
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Old 12-14-2016, 06:43 PM   #8 (permalink)
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@Fab. I would agree that taking to the shop is the good alternative. For me, with the knowledge and tools, it's not a big deal. I can change the Air Filter in the time it would take to drive to the dealer. If someone is not familiar with removing the front Fascia, a shop would certainly be the right decision.

Please keep in mind, I was responding to the question on "how" to change the filter by one's self. For those not mechanically inclined, the "shop" is a better choice.
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Old 12-14-2016, 07:34 PM   #9 (permalink)
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@Fab. I would agree that taking to the shop is the good alternative. For me, with the knowledge and tools, it's not a big deal. I can change the Air Filter in the time it would take to drive to the dealer. If someone is not familiar with removing the front Fascia, a shop would certainly be the right decision.

Please keep in mind, I was responding to the question on "how" to change the filter by one's self. For those not mechanically inclined, the "shop" is a better choice.
No question that your answer was directly on point. I am generally mechanically inclined, but the possibility of damaging the fascia gave me pause. Talking to Pat about it, he said that they have come up with a two-person procedure with a specialized tool to take the fascia off without causing any damage. Since I would have to pay for the filter itself either way, and I was taking my car in for annual service anyway, the incremental savings were miniscule to nonexistent, for me anyway. As is often said, YMMV.
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Old 12-14-2016, 08:42 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by AlJOHN View Post
I have 40K miles on my Karma, and changed the engine Air Filter a 30K. I assume 50 ICE usage, and therefore wanted to change the filter. The Cabin Filter near the fire wall is a custom Fisker Part. The ICE Air Filter is located in the front of the engine compartment. It is not mentioned in the Owners Manual. However, changing the filter is necessary as with any ICE. Even if one drive on Battery 90% of the time the Oil and Filter still need to be changed since the Oil will break down with time. So I would recommend maintenance on the ICE at regular intervals.
I have 14K miles after 4 years of Karma ownership and have religiously changed the synthetic oil and filter. But now I'm wondering if this has been overkill. As an aircraft owner, changing the oil twice annually and performing a visual inspection and/or lab oil analysis for metal particles was a no-brainer. And, as far as the aircraft's air filter was concerned, it was removed, inspected and replaced only if it was obviously becoming clogged. This generally took a couple of years to happen, even in adverse flying conditions.

Synthetic oil doesn't breakdown as quickly as petroleum-based oils. In fact, it doesn't breakdown at all; only its additives eventually deteriorate and it's more a matter of time than miles driven.

With regard to the air filter, if it's only used a fraction of the time, why change it annually and risk messing up the fascia? As @AIJohn suggests, 30K miles should be fine. I agree. In fact, I'll bet if you held my filter up to the light, which is what we did to check an aircraft's filter, it would look like it just came out of the box.
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