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Old 05-03-2014, 05:47 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I sometimes have less the the ususal 81 km on a full charge but after a while I get all the 81 back. It is stated numerous times on the forum but I can only repeat: Always do full charges, no fiddling, if there is an issue just let the car have a nap and restart. Its just like having a I-phone 1.0.
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Old 05-04-2014, 11:34 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Harleyguy View Post
You have a bad module in the high voltage battery . I can rebuild the battery depending where you live .
I have asked this question a coupe of times with no answer.

What exactly is wrong when you have a bad module? Is one of the cells physically damaged somehow? Is one cell "unbalanced" ? Just curious.

I have a bad "cell" "module" something. At 3 miles left of range it's counts down to 0 in about 3 seconds. It has stayed this way for over 4,000 miles - meaning it hasn't increased (it's always three miles) - I am in no hurry to fix it. But I am curious with what is actually "bad" about the module or cell.


Thanks
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Old 05-06-2014, 02:32 PM   #13 (permalink)
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That's a very good question and I as a newcomer in the electric car world would be very interested in an answer.
And here another question: When driving to work a do normally about 20Miles. I could re-charge the car in my office's parking, but normally it would not be enough time to fully recharge. Is there any issue Known when not fully charging the battery but stopping at about 80%?
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Old 05-06-2014, 03:42 PM   #14 (permalink)
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i can't answer my own questions. but i can answers yours. There is absolutely no problem partially recharging the HV battery.
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Old 05-06-2014, 05:10 PM   #15 (permalink)
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This happened to me once in the last 7 months. After replacing my OBCM and a hard reset by the tech it hasn't happened again. Car is running beautifully. Fingers crossed.
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Old 05-06-2014, 06:40 PM   #16 (permalink)
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A charging problem is different then a bad or defective module . The battery has 15 Modules in each module is 21 cells . When I hooked up a Karma to my lap top I can read live data of the battery or if a code is set it shows what module is defective within the module it shows how many of the cells are bad it lists them by number . Example is a bad Module # 10 cells 2/7/9 are showing bad . I can also view live data I can look at all the modules highest voltage and lowest also check tempi tires of each module . I will look and post what the fault codes look like and the live data . A picture makes it easier to understand .

As far as the OBCM that's for a charging issue nothing else .

One of the reasons A123 and Fisker got into trouble was these battery problems A123 wanted to replace defective modules Fisker wanted to replace complete batteries . Well we ended up replacing complete batteries .

Fisker never trained us how to service batteries they said it was to dangerous which it is but with proper training it would of saved a ton of money .

I learned how to service the battery by teaching myself and I'm also fortunate to be friends with a EX A123 service technician .
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Old 05-19-2014, 04:31 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Rabbit,

if your issue still persists, call Emil Frey AG in Zurich and ask for Mr. "Koch". He's the Fisker expert there...

If you bought your car in Switzerland or any of the other "Emil Frey countries", you should have received a 4 year full warranty. Emil Frey keeps some spare cars to rip apart as a last resort if they have to provide warranty and the replacement parts are not available anymore...

Regards from Wil SG
Yves
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Old 05-19-2014, 03:17 PM   #18 (permalink)
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I have a 4 years full warranty. But the came back last week with the following solution:
It seems to be a not properly balanced Battery. They told me to fully run down the battery, than recharge it fully, and after that unplug and re-plug it again. AFter the re-plugging the battery should start to re-balance. I would have to to that for several times as one time wouldn't be enough.
First problem I have with that is that my battery is not empty when the Range Indication shows 0 Miles left. But after showing 0 Miles left, the Gas-Engine starts automatically. And that makes it impossible to fully run the battery down as it is always re-charged. Dose anybody heard about this Re-Balancing? what is your experience and how can I handle the fact that I can not fully runs down the battery?
many thanks
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Old 05-19-2014, 08:58 PM   #19 (permalink)
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The battery always has about 15% battery charge left in it . Just run the battery all the way down until it shows zero miles left on battery . Charge the battery up again and do the same . A unbalance battery usually happens after replacing a module I've had customers cycle the battery discharge and charge a few times .
It doesn't do any damage it might help but the live data the battery shows and any codes set by the battery will show if you have a weak module
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Old 05-19-2014, 09:29 PM   #20 (permalink)
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I have a similar issue - at 3-4 miles left of range it counts down to zero in about 3 seconds, engine starts and CEL comes on. I was originally given the same advice as you as far as running the battery down and charging, well that hasn't helped but the problem hasn't gotten any worse.

I did run down my battery - and it is possible to run it down to ZERO - I did it by accident - but if you have no gas, the car will use the HV battery until it can't.but from what little I know this isn't suppose to be good for the battery

I have a question for the battery experts:

1. after a full charge, say overnight, I am able to unplug the car, and replug it and it will continue to charge. I can do this 6-10 times. I once did this in a hotel charge point that tells you how much electricity was used - I was able to after a full charge unplug and re-plug the car over 9 times and each time some electricity was transferred. Is this normal?

2. are the issues with the battery described above - related to a unbalanced battery? or is this separate from a bad cell or module?
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